jd 336 baler knife need sharpening

jkc42

New User
I have the OM but no where does it tell me how to sharpen the knife. My plunger knife needs to be sharpened, can anybody walk me through the process. Thanks for your help
 
I bought a set of new knives in the middle of hay season to replace my worn knives on my 336. I had hoped to get the knives on before my second cutting this year but when I went to get into the bale chamber to take the old knives out I realized that it was going to be more than a quick job so it got put off.

In the mean time, I had crawled into the bale chamber with a handheld blade sharpener (kind of like what you see for kitchen knives) and that got plunger knife through the second cutting without too much hassle. I heard that sharpening the old knives with a grinder can heat the metal too much, permanently altering the cutting edge so that it will not hold an edge for very long. I didn't trust myself to figure that all out (and couldn't find an old-timer near me who knew what they were doing) so I bought a new set of after-market knives from a guy who makes new jd 336 parts from american steel out of new york. Either way, new or sharpening, you really need to take the blades off which from my perspective involves some time and effort. Hope this helps a little.

-Jameson
 
Don't go within a hundred yards with it with an angle grinder! My Dad took the knife of Allis Chalmers 300 baler an we had years ago and was sharpening it with a file. Our neighbour called in and said "Oh you don't want to bugger about like that, let me do it for you!" so we let him take it home to sharpen it for us. We actually trusted him with it as he seemed to be a very good mechanic, he used to build his own trailers etc.
But he used his angle grinder on it ,turned it blue( also he had sharpened it at the wrong angle anyway )and totally wrecked it.
 

jkc42
I believe the easiest way to R&R knife is to remove plunger head from bale chamber(takes about 5 minutes with an air wrench). IIRC knife is held on by 3 bolts that the nuts are in plunger head.

On sharpening knife I agree don't get in hot and ruin temper of metal and definitely keep the same angle.
 
You can replace the knives with the plunger in the chamber. Make sure the stationary knife is .010" behind the lower rail. Put plunger knife in and shim it tight. Take a pry bar and hold over on plunger while rotating flywheel by hand to make sure knives don't clash. At the NH dealer I worked for we had a sharpener we mounted them knives to. Used the same sharpener to rebevel 717 chopper knives. I'd buy a new set and have your's sharpened for spares.
 
(quoted from post at 20:06:57 10/06/10) You can replace the knives with the plunger in the chamber.

I agree but no harder than it is to R&R a plungerhead on a JD baler I'd do it out of the baler rather than be a contortionist.
 
I just remove them and sharpen them on a belt sander. I have one that has a guide on it to set the angle for sharpening chisels. It works great for the plunger blades. It is much easier to keep from over heating the edge with a sander.
 
I just remove them and sharpen them on a belt sander. I have one that has a guide on it to set the angle for sharpening chisels. It works great for the plunger blades. It is much easier to keep from over heating the edge with a sander.
 
A blue appearance on a saw tooth or knife is very hard, wont affect cutting but will be impossible to file.My new 12 foot sawmill bands are blue on the teeth and back edge.This is from induction hardening.I use an angle grinder to sharpen my sickle knife, the best way Ive found.It would take a big change in knife angle to affect a hay knife.Ive had a sharpening business since 1970.
 

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