Slow hydraulics on a Ford 6610

Finally went to see the 6610 that is for sale. Guy says that the hydraulics are slow opening and closing his round baler. They seem fine raising the front end loader and the bucket. I did ask him about the lift arms on the 3 pt hitch jerking while it was siting there at the idle, he said it had always done that. Tractor shows 4600 on the meter that has been broken for 4 years. There is some wear on the brake pedals and the clutch pedal. Tractor is a little better than average I think and has mainly done hay. Any opinions would be appreciated.

Sounds like there is a high pressure leak in the three point. That would make the hydraulics slow. Also some models of Fords are fussy about not using the right hose end. Ford usually needed the pioneer tip with the flat tip not the ball type. The ball type does not open all of the way and makes the flow slow.
They posting this over on the Ford forum. There are a lot more knowledgeable Ford guys than me over there.

How long ago was HYD filter changed? If partialy clogged or not tite it will suck air.

Is there an internal filter or just the one on the outside?

If the loader raises normally but the baler is slow I'd suspect that either the remote he's using the baler on has the flow control turned down slow or if it won't lift then there is probably a problem in the load sense circuit of that particular valve. Most likely a shuttle check valve. ~Probably~ not too expensive to fix. Again, this is assuming that the loader is tied into the remote circuit either on the rear remotes or with a mid-mount valve.

The three point correction is not quite normal but not uncommon. A lot of them will do that. This could be the result of a leaking lift cylinder, leaking control valve (either due to wear or maladjustment), a bad check valve or a few other things that escape me right now. Bottom line with that... if it lifts what you need lifted and it's not correcting in a violent way, leave it alone. You could dump a pile of money in it and be right where you're at now...

Other things to watch are the engines. Make sure there's no coolant in the oil or dirt/grime/oil in the coolant. Cavitation was a problem with Ford engines up to a point in time but should have been corrected IF the tractor has the heavy ribbed (cross hatch) engine block. Also check that the clutch doesn't slip when you put it in sixth gear and dump it. Check the front end for wear on the tie rods, spindles, bushings and pivot pin.
Otherwise just check that everything works normally, etc.
They are a good tractor.

Rod

One other thought I had was; is he leaving the remote feeding the loader valve in the raise position instead of returning it to neutral when operating the baler? If he is that would rob a lot, if not all of the flow! BTDT!!
Dave

There are only one set of hookups, so he has to unpug the loader to use the baler.

There are only one set of hookups, so he has to unplug the loader to use the baler.

OOOOHHH!!!! Sounds like the problem is with the baler, not the tractor!!
JMHO, Dave

OOOOHHH!!!! Sounds like the problem is with the baler, not the tractor!!
JMHO, Dave

Mabey 'slow' is a relative term... Does the tractor have the second pump mounted on the left rear of the engine?
If it doesn't, slow is what it's going to be...

Rod

The baler is faster for him on his bigger tractors. The tractor has original paint {I like that}, it needs a new seat and front tires but is usable as is. I don't like the amount of wear on the top of the pedals and the fact that the hour meter is not working. But I know that it has mainly done mowing and light work. I can get it for 8,500 and that is a bargain, IF the hyydraulics don't stop working, because I can live with slow. Tractor does blow black smoke when you start it and baling, he sats that someone turned the pump up and the tractor has alot of power for its size.

Wondered about that too, but he says the loader works fine! Maybe "loader works fine" is relative?!?!

Rod, Is the CCLS system available with only 1 remote, or would that be the old open center system with the remote valve under the seat? Is there a way to plumb the second pump to the old open center system?
Dave

All 4 cylinder 10 series tractors had load sensing hydraulics. Adding a second pump is as simple as adding the pump (and mabey the drive gear), the suction and pressure lines and a check ball in the priority pack.
I think. The only thing I'm not positive on without looking is the arpeture for the suction line in the rear axle but I can't imagine them casting a different rear axle just for that. Should be a soft plug of some type in the hole...

The other possibility is that putting the baler on a larger tractor is simply on a tractor with 2-3 times the flow...

What I'd worry a bit more about at this point is the fuel pump. That engine was about at it's top without cranking it up. I'd hate to think how much fuel it would burn now. A turbo would give a lot more mileage than turning it up as the turbo would pretty near make a 7610 without touching the screw....


Rod