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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

NH 276 baler

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Brad Mc

05-24-2010 16:17:41

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I have a 276 that will not make a square bale the right side is to big. I have gone through the operators manual and made the adjustments it says to make. Still no good, I got 1 good bale out of 10. Can anyone help.

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05-25-2010 15:21:10

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 16:17:41  
Look in thr manual the "bale service chart" It states if there is too mauch material in right side of bale..Feeder carriage improperly adjusted, or feeder back improperly adjusted, or broken feeder tines. So go to about page 23 read about"bale shape" feeder back, and feeder carriage. And there's even pictures of the feeder back.


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05-25-2010 08:36:35

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 16:17:41  
If you have adjusted the feeder forks then I would look at the hay dogs and the wedges in the bale chamber to make sure everything is there and in working condition.

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05-25-2010 07:14:36

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 16:17:41  
To add what they said below, try having the windrow picked-up more on one side than the other. On my old IH 46 baler it only likes it when its picked-up on the far right side of the pickup if your sitting in the tractor seat. Not sure if its the same on a NH baler.

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Tom in TN

05-24-2010 17:51:36

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 16:17:41  

I have a NH 273 baler that I use to make about 2000 bales of grass hay each year. My bales are not always perfect, but they are very close to being right.

If you have gone through the manual and checked all of the adjustments for bale size and shape, and are still having problems, I would GUESS that the problem might be the size of the windrows.

On my 273, my best bales are made with about 12 to 15 cycles of the plunger per bale. That will vary of course with length and tightness of the bales you're making, but you might be able to find an optimum number of strokes per bale for your size of bales.

I pull my baler with a Ford 2000 tractor, usually running in 2nd gear. The PTO speed on my tractor is affected by the engine RPM so I keep the throttle set at 1600 to 1800 RPM to insure that the PTO is running around 540 RPM, and then select my gear based on the number of plunger strokes per bale. More than 20 strokes per bale, I upshift. Fewer that 10 strokes per bale, I downshift

Good luck working out the right combination for good bales.

Tom in TN

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Brad Mc

05-24-2010 18:19:06

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Tom in TN, 05-24-2010 17:51:36  
Tom, What is the optimum size for the wind rows?

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05-25-2010 13:49:17

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 18:19:06  
You just keep making them bigger until the baler can't feed them easily... I like rows to be big enough that I need to bale in second gear.


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Brad Mc

05-25-2010 16:17:24

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to RodInNS, 05-25-2010 13:49:17  
Thanks all for your help. Today I made big wind rows the baler liked having lots of hay,1800 rpm and 3rd gear that gave me about 14 strokes per bale(Ford 7000 tractor) and the bales came out nice maybe 1 in 30 that looked bad, did a couple hundred

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Tom in TN

05-24-2010 20:01:54

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 18:19:06  

I don't think there is a quantifiable answer to that question. The optimum is what works for the size bale you want and the equipment you are using to make the bales.

In the case of my 273, in dense, tall fescue/clover mix, I generally rake two swaths of my mower together to make a good windrow. I mow with a Ford 501 sickle bar mower that has a six foot bar on it. In some grass, I only rake one swath and if the grass is sparse, I rake more than one swath into the windrow.

Typically, the windrow is about three feet wide and about 18 inches high. But again, the size of the windrow should be matched to the equipment that you are using and the way you're using it.

I hope that we aren't leading you in a wrong path here. If it is possible for you to experiment a little bit with the windrow size and ground speed, it might be a big help. But if you don't see any difference with your experiments, maybe the problem is actually something in the machine.

I hope you have success soon. The NH 276 is a good baler that will provide excellent service to you when you hit the right combination.

Tom in TN

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05-25-2010 13:36:25

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Tom in TN, 05-24-2010 20:01:54  
I to have a 273... like you not always perfect. With mine it likes to have alot of hay in it at all times to make almost perfect bales. That is alot of hay without making the baler or tractor bog down. However this year I built an air packer for it. Have a neighbor that has one says it made his 273 produce perfect bales length and weight regardless of windrow size or intake. So I built one.. cant wait to give it a try...soon...

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steve terplak

05-26-2010 14:02:03

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to mss3020, 05-25-2010 13:36:25  
i have never heard of an air packer...
what is it? got pics? easy to build?

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05-24-2010 16:58:15

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 16:17:41  
Rake larger windrows, or throttle back & gear up to reduce the number of strokes per bale. Have you moveded the back of the feeder housing forward?

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Brad Mc

05-24-2010 17:16:13

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to RickB, 05-24-2010 16:58:15  
Thanks Rick I have tried reducing throttle, haven't geared up or tried larger windrows, and not sure about the feeder housing can't find that in tne manual. Retired firefighter so if there aren't alot of pictures then we have trouble, thanks for any help offered.

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05-25-2010 16:31:43

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 Re: NH 276 baler in reply to Brad Mc, 05-24-2010 17:16:13  
In my case, with a 273, I found adjustment of the feeder tines into the chamber and counting strokes per bale (12-20 strokes per bale) to have the biggest impact on bale quality. Adjusting the back of the feeder housing didn"t really change much for mine, and I found little impact when I replaced old worn wedges in the chamber. Some of my fields generate inconsistent swath size, so it is critical to count strokes per bale. I now do it subconsciously, and I change gears very frequently when I fall out of the ideal bale shape range.

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