Massey Ferguson 12 Square Baler

Bill_B_WS

New User
Hey all. I have a MF baler that runs in time but wont tie. I"ve been through everything and can"t figure it out. Even had a few old timers look at it and neither can they. The knotter looks sound, bill hook is shiney, the cutters are sharp. It will cut one side and not knot, and the other side the string doesn"t cut and it will produce a six foot bale, until you hand cut the twine. Does anyone know a good MF mechanic in West TN? I"m 40 miles south of JAckson, TN and 50 miles east of Memphis. Other wise the baler seems sound.
Thanks!
Bill
 

Bill hook is shiny, does it have a groove worn in it?

Is the knife sharp?

Is the twine tension too tight on both adjustments?
 
Have you run it by hand so that you can see exactly what is happening? There are many basic principles that apply to all balers and with a little more info someone here may be able to nail it down for you.
 
Had a similar problem with my MF 12, turned out to be a broken spring tensioner on back of baler right after the twine box. Just didnt keep enuf tension on twine when it was tying. Simple fix for an aggravating problem, the MF12 is a great little baler. Then again most balers are good when they are working right, lol
Dick
 
Length of the bale should not be determined by how the knotters are working. Should be some type of measuring wheel, etc.- separate adjustment. Bill hooks and associated parts needn"t wear the same- can have one side working, one not. Can be different issues each side.
 
Hello Everyone!
Thank you for your replies. You all brought up a lot of good points. The bill hook does not have groves worn in them. The spring tensioner is not broken, the tension spring and tension on the twine is good. No groves worn in the twine guides.

The wiper arm appears it may be broken on the side the twine won"t cut(this is the right side the bale keeps growing, meaning it won"t cut or knot and the bale could be a twelve foot bale if I let it keep going).

The left side knotters won"t tie; they"ll cut but not knot. The needles appear to feed ok, but it"s hard to tell. I"ve ridden on the back of the baler and watched the process along with an older square baler man. Neither of us could figure it out. I fear it"s a combination of so many different parts not doing what they are supposed to do. The knotter assembly, at this point, is beyond me to figure it out, it doesn"t flip up like NH Balers, and you have to unbolt it. At least we couldn"t figure out how to flip it up, and, yes I have a manual <grin>. We have taken it apart, but that didn"t do it either. I think I need an expert at this point.

If anyone knows a good mechanic in my area, at this point I"m ready to give in to the 70 per hour labor charge. I"ve spent over 16 hours tinkering with it, riding on the back, etc. I even developed a cheat to test the tie and it didn"t work. I used a high tension bungee on both sets of twine and tripped the knotter multiple times, and we still couldn"t figure it out! I"m ready to call in a pro. Was the baler not in such good condition sheet metal wise, etc, I"d sell it for parts and get a newer baler. But I can"t get the $1400 out of it I have in it. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions. I live in West TN, 40 miles south of Jackson and 50 miles east of Memphis if anyone knows a good mechanic in my area that can work on a Massey 12.
Thanks!!
Bill
 

The knotters should partially flip up anyways by removing the bolts just above the chamber, they will sort of pivot up.

Too much tension can cause trouble, off hand there is the twine tensioner on the side of the twine box, the twine guides (spring load) on each knotter and the "twine clamp" (5/8" head bolt??) on side each knotter.

Also see if the twine stripper on each knotter is in time, you mention one side is broken ("wiper"?) the sides of the stripper hooks can get a groove in them where they rest against the stops and the linkage gets sloppy meaning the hook goes away too far and reacts too slowly.
 
Bill I'll ask again if you have turned it over by hand to check what it is doing. This is the only way to check needle adjustment. if the needles are out, the knotters can't "catch" the twine. and you have no hope of seeing it riding on the back while it is working because they move too fast.
 
TOTALLY agree; anytime there's a problem with the knotters that's not immediately obvious, roll it over by hand and trip the tying mechanism and OBSERVE what's happening.
 
(quoted from post at 15:54:38 05/25/10) Hello Everyone!
Thank you for your replies. You all brought up a lot of good points. The bill hook does not have groves worn in them. The spring tensioner is not broken, the tension spring and tension on the twine is good. No groves worn in the twine guides.

The wiper arm appears it may be broken on the side the twine won"t cut(this is the right side the bale keeps growing, meaning it won"t cut or knot and the bale could be a twelve foot bale if I let it keep going).

The left side knotters won"t tie; they"ll cut but not knot. The needles appear to feed ok, but it"s hard to tell. I"ve ridden on the back of the baler and watched the process along with an older square baler man. Neither of us could figure it out. I fear it"s a combination of so many different parts not doing what they are supposed to do. The knotter assembly, at this point, is beyond me to figure it out, it doesn"t flip up like NH Balers, and you have to unbolt it. At least we couldn"t figure out how to flip it up, and, yes I have a manual &lt;grin&gt;. We have taken it apart, but that didn"t do it either. I think I need an expert at this point.

If anyone knows a good mechanic in my area, at this point I"m ready to give in to the 70 per hour labor charge. I"ve spent over 16 hours tinkering with it, riding on the back, etc. I even developed a cheat to test the tie and it didn"t work. I used a high tension bungee on both sets of twine and tripped the knotter multiple times, and we still couldn"t figure it out! I"m ready to call in a pro. Was the baler not in such good condition sheet metal wise, etc, I"d sell it for parts and get a newer baler. But I can"t get the $1400 out of it I have in it. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions. I live in West TN, 40 miles south of Jackson and 50 miles east of Memphis if anyone knows a good mechanic in my area that can work on a Massey 12.
Thanks!!
Bill

Mine acted up on me just like yours once while in the field. I found out that a spring hooked to a groove in the linkage had come off. This linkage rod is attached to the flat,comma looking part that swings over to pull the twine to start the knotting.
Mine didn't break anything,it just slipped off the rod because I don't have a cover for the top of my baler and it gathers hay into the workings.
 
Had the not tying problem on my old #3. The wheels that follow the cam were flat spotted and wouldn't allow the flipper to move properly.
 
Hey thurlow,

I did turn it over by hand, well, wife and friend did while I watched. The needles have the correct clearance, it appears they enter the knotter ok, and the gears take in the twine and start rolling it around. Not sure if the bill hooks are working correctly though. it looks like it's not twisting correctly, although I have no idea what that'd look like. Check out the longer description on my last post. Thanks again!
 
Any luck with getting your baler to tie? I've used a mf12 for the last 6 yrs and this yr the misties are more frequent, only on one side. I have a manual, have been through it repeatedly, replaced parts, different bill hooks, etc. I cant nail it down. If you learned anything I'd like to hear what you found. Thanks.
 

One other thing might be the twine itself, our #9 likes sisal best, the plastic being smaller doesn't cooperate, and the QUALITY of twine, the stuff we had last year was garbage, varied diameter, poor splices etc both of which led to issues with tying, some balls were no issues, other balls lots of tying issues.
 
They should flip up. I think it's a 3/8" x 1" bolt or so on each knotter at the back that holds it down on the bale chamber. I think you need to lift the one on the feed side first, then the outside knotter will lift.

Haven't had our 12 out yet this year.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
(quoted from post at 13:13:58 06/22/10)
One other thing might be the twine itself, our #9 likes sisal best, the plastic being smaller doesn't cooperate, and the QUALITY of twine, the stuff we had last year was garbage, varied diameter, poor splices etc both of which led to issues with tying, some balls were no issues, other balls lots of tying issues.

This one will tie a knot, somewhat of an ugly one, but as the bale travels down the chamber after being knotted, and the hay expands and puts pressure on the knot, it will sometimes slip apart.
Regarding the twine, we are using an orange twine, I'm thinking thats the plastic twine, right? What exactly is sisal twine? We've never used any other twine, it sure wouldnt hurt to use a different type to see what happens.

Thanks, Bruce
 

Sisal is the "natural" twine, it costs more than plastic and isn't as rodent proof, however, it is typically thicker and more in line with what older knotters were designed for, and it biodegrades and is a lot safer for use around livestock.

Any decent place that sells twine should have sisal available. We usually get 9000 or 10000 sisal.
 
Run sisal in the #12. Should help things alot. We tried plastic in our baler once a while back and it gave nothing but troubles. Switched back to sisal and it went right back to normal.

We run either 9000 or 7200 in our baler. Sometimes the 9000 is too thin and pops with bales of canary grass, so we'll go to the 7200 and then it works fine.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 

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