HYDRAULIC TOP LINK, PROS-CONS?

charles todd · Nov 16, 2008

I am thinking of buying a hydraulic top link to use with my "Root Rake" I just recently built. Has anyone used these before? Is it recommended to use a DPOCV (double pilot operated check valve) to handle shock loads? I was reading some post on TractorByNet.com and there was a lot of info there on compact tractors users regarding HTL. It seems like a good idea.

Pictures of the Root Rake on the IH forum.

Charles

paul · Nov 16, 2008

I got one of those C&C top links with the pilot valves a few years ago. It's on my 1720 compact tractor.

Couldn't pry it away from me now.

Thinking of getting one for the cat 2 tractors I have.

--->Paul

Anonymous-0 · Nov 17, 2008

Got 'em on 2 tractors. Handiest thing since the shirt pocket!

Bus Driver · Nov 17, 2008

Unless the tractor auxiliary hydraulic valve seals perfectly, the pilot-operated check valve will be a necessity. Once an operator has used a hydraulic upper link, they would never want any other type.

Tom from Buckeye Lake · Nov 17, 2008

I put one on my MF 150. Use it with the box blade, boom pole and carryall. Sure like adjusting the top link without getting off of the tractor.

johns48jdb · Nov 17, 2008

i tried that once an broke the ears off the cylinder. i guess it would be ok if you have sway locks on your lift arms. i assume your using a latter model tractor.

charles todd · Nov 17, 2008

Want to use it on a Farmall 504 Diesel for a homemade harrow I built. My valves are pretty good, and recently rebuilt. But I am sure there is some interenal leakage. That is why I was asking about the DPOCV type of HTL. Do they chatter when you have a load on them and adjust?

Charles

charles todd · Nov 17, 2008

Here is a picture of my project that I want to use the HTL on...

Charles

Anonymous-0 · Nov 17, 2008

Irregardless of the HTL working, id say you did a helluva job building that harrow
stick a couple more pics of the whole thing on if you dont care.
Ive been pondering building something along that line and could get some ideas
thanks

paul · Nov 17, 2008

You need a cyl with ball swivels at each end.

Or, there are swivels you can buy to adapt a regular hyd cyl.

The pilot valves will 'lock' the cylinder into position, so there is no leak-down, and no 'stretch' of the cyl by the hoses flexing, etc. The tractor hyd need to overcome the pilot locking pressure - you can hear the tractor work a little to force the pilot valves open - then the cyl raises or lowers like any other. No chattering or anything.

--->Paul

johns48jdb · Nov 17, 2008

very nicely done. lots of good braces and welding is very good at least compatred to mine. others looking to build one of these will find that making it taller will allow for more roots to accumulate before you have to go dump. also about half that number of teeth will allow it to penetrate easier. also use some regular chisel plow points but the real small narrow ones and weld them to the pieces you have sticking down now. i think you'll find that you need to cut about half of yours out to make it take the ground. i'd prefer to not use a cylinder here because of the load your going to put on the system in the way of jerking. wear a seat belt to keep from being thrown into the steering wheel when you hit something that want give. play with what you have and let us know how it works out. i think you added the chain to keep from twisting the frame up. so you might want to go ahead and add a piece of angle bracing in place of the chain. i'd like to see this at work.

charles todd · Nov 17, 2008

LOL, the tractor and rake are on a trailer. The chain is holding it down :lol:

Here are the pics, I have more of the construction phase if ya'll would like them too...

Once it dries up, I'll post some before and after pics of what it can do. My grandfather built one like this about 40 years ago. He used it behind a MF 135 and a Long 445. I think the Farmall 504 Diesel can handle the extra foot. His was 6', mine is 7'. His 3-point was over the front pipe, mine is out about 16" tied to the channel iron. Someone pointed out that I may need to box the lower pins into a "clevis" style to resist twisting the Cat I pins.

Any ideas I will take to heart, I am sure some "tweeking" will be required. I am still thinking a HYDRAULIC TOP LINK will help here.

Charles

RobMD · Nov 17, 2008

Nice 504. I have a 404 tricycle. Gears in the 404 are pretty much useless for anything, lol.

charles todd · Nov 17, 2008

Thanks for the compliment. I like to think I have a decent specimen of a 504. It is a little small compared to the 6 cyl IH's, but is great for a hobby farm (50 acres).

This 504 was a tricycle originally. It has a Speeco on it now (I think) with a poorly fabricated mount. I plan to buy a Schwartz by next year.

This 504 D has the option codes S-X-Y. What this means is S=TA w/ IPTO, X=High speed 1st and reverse, Y=12 GPM pump (now 17 GPM). With the high speed low and reverse it is a little fast for slow work. I use the TA for a lot of loader work. I do not know how people can split a tractor and install a TA Eliminator kit. It makes a 10+2 a 5+1...

Thanks,

Charles

Anonymous-0 · Nov 18, 2008

CCM out of Johnson City Tenn. just google haymaxx -- never had skill/patience to box blade until I got that link -- also makes everything else I have to hook up by myself easier.

charles todd · Nov 18, 2008

I bought a CCM link today... Maybe overkill, but that is how I roll 8)

Charles

DR Darren · Nov 18, 2008

do you know if there is any top link that uses one way hydralics? my ford 3000 only has one way hydraulics. hoping not to have to change it over to 2 way.

paul · Nov 18, 2008

You could use a non-pilot valved one with just a breather.

However, this will allow your toplink to float up, which is not a normal condition (nice for brush hogging & some other such tasks) and could cause you problems. Obviously would not work at all with 3pt plow and other such implements. I don't think it would be worth doing unless you had one or 2 tasks that only needed one-way?

--->Paul

Doug in Illinois · Nov 18, 2008

I have not yet done any research on them, but after reading the replies may need to. I have thought about building my own but would be too heavy. So the toplink is now available without me building it. The other thing I would like is a little 4 way valve down on the RH lift arm to adjust up, down/ right, left without getting off the tractor to crank the adjustment. Any of you who might own a 5 wheel 3 point mounted rake likely know what I ask. DOUG

charles todd · Nov 19, 2008

CCM also has the hydraulic side link as well as the top link. Both have the pilot check system to lock the cylinder. Cat 1 top link is $185-195, side link is $250. Cat 2 available. I cannot built one for $185.

Charles

charles todd · Nov 19, 2008

The link to CCM.

http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm

Charles

HYDRAULIC TOP LINK, PROS-CONS?

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