NH 846 Chain baler

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Neighbor has one that's only taking up space and wants to be rid of it for a song. Floor's fair to middlin', rest of the machine seems in fair to good shape. Lower conveyor chains are good. Biggest problem is the upper conveyor chain got broke, and one of those bars broke clean in half. Chain itself looks pretty good, except at the broken links at the bar. Not exactly sure why it broke, but in taking a look seems like the idler pulleys on the inside of the tailgate aren't lining up exactly with the idler gears. Could be the chain jumped the gear due to a worn idler, or misadjustment. Also the cams have little grooves in them, don't know if that's good or bad.
I'm pretty good with machines, but don't know squat about chain balers. How can you tell if those idler wheels are wore out? Idler bearings are a little sloppy, but not terrible. Main drive bearings all are good.
Thanks.
 

I had an 847 which is very similar. If the floor has holes worn in it it's not long for this world. I welded steel plates between the runners on the floor. Speaking of the runners, check them, if they have deep grooves worn in them from the chain they will have to be replaced soon. On the big chain, look real close at it before you declare it good. My experience was that once the chain broke, it probably was going to need replacing soon. The big chain and the floor chains should show signs of being oiled regularly. Personally, I would walk away from it.

KEH
 
We have an 846 that I use occasionaly. No mechanical troubles to speak of. Floor is available from NH for $900, or if you are reasonably handy you can make one. Those balers hate sandy conditions, eats them up. Biggest thing is to be sure you don't cut down a lot of hay with it, because if there isn't enough moisture, it won't start a bale. After it is rolling, it's fine. You will need a good horse. I put a John Deere 630 on the front of ours and that thing had a thunder to it when that baler filled. Tying is a trip until you learn. Make sure that you move the string slow into the knife, otherwise it doesn't go in and keeps feeding. Also, NEVER, EVER, EVER CLIMB UNDER THAT TAILGATE WITHOUT LETTING DOWN THE STOPS. Those hoses break, cylinders leak, and that tailgate weighs a ton.

All I can think of. Allan will educate you on them.

JoshuaGA
 
Id guess if the bar broke clean as oppsoed to bending its what took down the apron chain. The apron chain drive has hard rubber drivers on it and when they get worn the metal around them cut the bars like a band saw. Grooves on the idlers are no problem. Floor is no problem, we wore out 3 floors in an 847. If you need it, and can get it for under a thousand its a good deal. If it has auto wrap its a great deal.

As far as really dry hay, and forming a core, you just have to figure out the hay. Normally I'd idle down to 1400 engine RPM, let it gather a core, stop forward motion and let the core spool up, then run up too 1900 engine RPM ( 540 PTO) and it was good to go. Actually, it did a better job in really dry hay than my belt NH baler does.
 
Overall, the machine is nice and greasy, which always gives me a good feeling. Welding in steel plate is a good idea, rather than making a floor out of sheet metal. I can't believe they want $900 fro what amounts to a flat plate of tin with a few holes punched in it.

What guage plate did you use?
 

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