john deere 95 w/217 engine

Good afternoon. We have a 1959 John Deere roundback 95 combine with a 217g engine. We swapped the points/condenser for a PERLUX ignition with a blaster coil. We are having issues with engine dying while operating in the field. It starts and runs fine for a few minutes, then it wants to quit. I notice that the coil is hooked direct to the 12 volt battery. I see no resistor any on the engine. We don't know if the distributor conversion was done properly. Could the coil be overheating? The combine will sputter, but when the starter engagement button is pushed, it will continue to run. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks-HAPPY GILMORE

(quoted from post at 11:24:13 07/06/22) Good afternoon. We have a 1959 John Deere roundback 95 combine with a 217g engine. We swapped the points/condenser for a PERLUX ignition with a blaster coil. We are having issues with engine dying while operating in the field. It starts and runs fine for a few minutes, then it wants to quit. I notice that the coil is hooked direct to the 12 volt battery. I see no resistor any on the engine. We don't know if the distributor conversion was done properly. Could the coil be overheating? The combine will sputter, but when the starter engagement button is pushed, it will continue to run. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks-HAPPY GILMORE

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''when the starter engagement button is pushed, it will continue to run''

That tells us that most likely the system is set up for a ballast/primary resistor in the circuit which is bypassed when the starter is engaged.

The resistor could be on the ignition switch, a primary wire could be a resistance wire, or there could be an actual ballast resistor hiding somewhere, DEERE used all three setups over the years on various machines.

ASSUMING the resistance is still present the system would use a 6 Volt coil/coil designed for use with a resistor for 12 Volt use. The primary resistance of a 6 Volt coil is typically on the 1.75 to 2.25 Ohms range, that of a coil NOT requiring an EXTERNAL resistor would be about double that.

If all is correct there it's possible the coil or the EI is getting wonky when it heats up.

Also, there could be an issue with the ignition switch or the primary wiring or resistor causing voltage drop or loss to the coil and EI when things warm up, pressing the starter button provides another current path (and will eventually wreck the starter or starter drive).

Also, if you have your pertronix instructions they should show an optional method of wiring that feeds full battery voltage to the EI unit, and includes a resistor in the feed to the coil primary.

as was stated by wore out. the pertronix needs 12 volts to postive coil lead. the coil should test 3 ohms between the postive and negative posts. go from there. we just had an issue with the fuel cap not venting propery. plus make sure you have good fuel flow from the tank and had the strainer top plug up too. good luck

Hello, thank you for your reply back. I installed a new 12 volt coil along with a ceramic resistor. I replaced the ignition switch with an ON/OFF toggle switch. Ran fine for about an hour or so. Engine quit,
but will run again when I turn the ignition switch off, then turn it back on again. Any idea what the heck is wrong? Will appreciate any help or tips. Thank You-Happy

will ask why you have that resistor in the system that perlux ignition wants 12 volts to coil. try removing the resistor and see what happens. again for the perlux that coil needed to be 3 ohms between postive and negivte on the coil.

junk condenser maybe?