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K2 Tranny Question

N

nh8260

Member
I got my new K2 delivered and i have a question about the tranny, like my K did years ago it wants to go in 2 gears, yesterday i had it in 2nd gear
and tried to come out to go to 1st but the shifter went down to 1st (while still in 2nd) and the machine bogged down when i started to let the clutch
out, after several minutes of trying i finally got it back over and out of 2nd and was able to come over into 1st.

Is this a linkage issue or tranny slack problem?? It makes me very nervous due to my K doing this and it busted the side of the tranny out and i sure
don't want that to happen again.
 
Mine does it if I'm not careful to make sure it's all the way in neutral before I try to shift to another gear. I've had to use a tire iron twice, down on the left side, to get the linkage moved to get it out of gear. I had to have my wife get up in it and wiggle the shift so I could tell which linkage to move. I'm guessing one linkage rod or the other needs just a slight adjustment to get them aligned correctly.
 
What Randy says, but also check the pins in the pivot points in the linkage. A little wear on the pins or the holes makes a lot of slop in the linkage. Above all, don't attempt to speed shift it!

Ben
 
Would have the same problem with my JI Case combines if trying to shift too fast. Long screw driver in the cab would pull the one shifter back into alignment.
cvphoto108592.jpg
 
Yeah rrlund i tried it again today and honestly i was in neutral and went to move it over so i could go into 2nd gear and it took me several minutes to get back over to put it in 1st. Just going from side to side to make sure its in neutral gets it all out of whack, the side linkage does have a good deal of slop, seems to be where a rod goes in a hole, i've got a guy here that can do anything so i'll get him to check it out, until then i might have to remove the rubber boot so i can look down in there and see where the shifter is at as i'm trying to shift.

Also, this machine has a button to hold down for 30-60 seconds to help it start in cold weather, is that a glow plug or a manifold heater thermostart system like alot of Ford tractors have? The manual just covered the gas engine.
 
That button is a manifold preheater, similar to the engine on an F2. Great little engine, you won't harvest with anything more economical, but they sure don't like cold starts!

Ben
 
I've been looking for a operators manual for that engine but so far haven't found anything, what number motor is it?

Also I have the A238 corn head, did they make a manual for it? I have one for the KL238 but i'm not sure if the settings for it are the same as the A238, if anyone has one of these manuals and could make copies of it i would be glad to pay for copies
 
The engine is a 4 cylinder 200 cubic inch turbocharged diesel. That engine in an F2 was also intercooler and rated at 100 hp. K2 may be slightly less hp. Similar to the engine in a 6060 or 6080 Allis tractor.
Not sure about the head, but the black frame heads are more desirable. If you can find a 3 row black frame, go for it.

Ben
 
Yeah i tried to start it yesterday, the temp was about 45-50 and i had to preheat it. Funny thing is the sound of that motor is similar to a big truck! I noticed a T valve looking thing at the top of the motor with heater hoses going to it, it is screwed all the way up now, does it need to be screwed in or out for the heater to work??
 
Your discussion is tweaking my memory. There was a kit, and I don't remember when it started or stopped, or exactly which models it covered. This kit replaced the single gear shift lever with two levers. Why a set up that had worked for years got to be troublesome, I also don't know. But, clearly, there was a problem. I don't know if it covered both the K and F series, or not.
 
Mine did also. I just can't remember if my K2 had 2 or 1. I installed those kits back in the 70's on new machines. But, again, I can't recall exactly which models were covered.
 
There was two different styles of linkage wasn't there? The 2s with the rounded windshield had it contained in the cab and out the bottom, but the flat windshield had a big rod with a socket down the outside if memory serves me right. That doesn't mean anything of course. LOL
 
I just can't remember. The old A's had the lever and quadrant down where you could see the whole thing. The E (predecessor to the K) had the whole works right up on the dash! I think it helped to be able to see what you were doing. So making it look pretty with the boot, keeping the dirt out and the clean air in, maybe didn't help shifting matters any.
 
The more I think, it could well be the separator drive that I'm thinking about that was different and had that rod with some odd socket where the later ones had a long rod that ran back along the side to the clutch. I just know Chad's F has something different than my K2 has.
 
In general the corn head manuals covered all sizes of corn heads made that year(s), so you would be looking for a manual that covers the 2, 3, 4, and 6 row heads most likely. Not sure if they separated the wide and narrow heads or somehow had 2 manuals to cover the frame sizes maybe?

I need to get done chisel plowing and look up all my manuals, I have several different here for machines and for heads......

Paul
 
We ran a straight F years ago, seems like the gear shift (non hydro) was on the top of the console and a single lever, our F2 (gear drive ) has 2 seperate levers and are down closer to the floor
 
My 77 K2 has one shift lever down low on the side of the console. It's a stubby little thing. It's kind of just behind and inside the separator clutch lever.
 
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