IH 1440 and a 1020 bean head

G.Fields · Jun 8, 2021

Last night I made a deal on a early 1440. It has manual/cable auto header height. Im looking at a 1020 head with electronic head height. Does CIH make a kit or sell parts to make the head work with no electronics? The combine has a 16.5 cut 820 head on it now but everyone I talk to says that they are not much. I was also wondering if i could easily add another valve next to the reel up/down valve to run the reel fore/aft on the 1020. Im hoping that I could find a used up/down valve and just stack it in line with the other two? Ill know more when I get it home but hopefully some of you guys have already played this game. Never owned a red combine before had gleaners before this one. Thanks for any help

Farmboy 81 · Jun 8, 2021

On the 1020 header height, there is a 3 pronged plug that must be connected from the combine to the head for the automatic header height to work. If it's not plugged up it will act as in the regular manual height mode. We had a 1640 and now have a 2344 with the oil bath wobble box on the head. That being said, we never had any luck with the auto height working till this newer head. Case changed some stuff to get it to work. On the 1640, at the time a height scale could be obtained from Case that bolted to the front right corner of the cab. It had a cable that went through the floor and connected to the feederhouse. That was a good fix for that situation. This may also be a good suggestion in your case.

Bob Bancroft · Jun 8, 2021

As I sit here and try to remember something from not that long ago, I am amazed at my aging memory! I think my 1020 head has a short cable which comes from the linkage under the head, up around to the potentiometer on the back of the head. I think the cable can be problematic, so there is an update kit, which I have not needed. All that to say- if you could get a good look at both heads, maybe there's a way to hook the cable from the 820 head right to the mechanism on the 1020, bypassing the potentiometer.

Secret Squirrel · Jun 8, 2021

There is a Brand X company that makes a platform control that works really well. We had one on a 1460 that did not have automatic control. If you need their name I will try to find it.

G.Fields · Jun 8, 2021

If you can think of it I would surely appreciate it. I have googled and searched forums until I am blue in the face!

Alvin 41 · Jun 8, 2021

I agree that some way to continue the mechanical height control would be easiest. Going from a conventional to an early IH rotary for beans ----Set concaves tight at about 700 RPM and disrupter bars in the grates behind the concaves help if straw is at all damp. A 2" stone dam behind the cutter bar is a must if you don't have a rock trap.

R.B · Jun 9, 2021

All you need is a cable that runs from under the platform to the combine. It is the same as the 820. Any good CaseIH dealer should know.

G.Fields · Jun 9, 2021

Ill have to look into the stone dam because I dont believe I have a
rock trap

Secret Squirrel · Jun 10, 2021

G.Fields Sorry I am just now getting back to you. The company name is;
REK-TIN
118 West Main
Po Box 207
Agency, Iowa 52530
641-937-6628
I haven talked to them in a few years.
Thanks,
SS

Alvin 41 · Jun 10, 2021

My first stone retarder was a commercial design that bolted 2" x 14" metal strips to verticle risers that bolted to every 4th guard and had bushings to allow the head to flex. On a later 1020 head I simply bolted a 1/4"x 2" poly strip to the risers. The reel would pull the straw over and stones would set on the guards or fall off. Your feeder drum should be set down so larger stones won't go under it.
About 1990 we went from a 915 to our first rotary ,1460,and suddenly had stone and wrapping problems in soybeans and chopped straw in wheat. It took vane adjustment ,and 9 Estes disrupter bars in the grates behind the concaves before we could work at night again.

IH 1440 and a 1020 bean head

G.Fields

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Farmboy 81

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Bob Bancroft

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Secret Squirrel

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G.Fields

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Alvin 41

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R.B

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G.Fields

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Secret Squirrel

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Alvin 41

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