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Gleaner K clutch slipping

S

Scott in Illinois

Member
Our K is having trouble pulling itself around. We originally thought it was a belt issue, but now I feel pretty sure the clutch is slipping. The adjustment is ok. I got under the machine, and the clutch housing was really hot, and the other thing that immediately bothered me is that there was a few drops of oil coming out of bottom of clutch housing. Is there a seal between transmission and clutch housing that could be leaking back into the clutch? Wondered if anyone else had ran into this. Can you do the clutch without removing the transmission? Also any advice on removal of the input sheaves and clutch itself would be appreciated. Thanks
 
What's common with them is the input shaft bearings going bad. Then, of course, clutch issues. Oil leaking is not common.

There is a ring of 3/8" fine threaded bolts holding the input shaft housing to the bell housing, which is bolted to the trans. You can remove those bolts, and maybe a u-bolt, and any other obvious bolts, and remove the input shaft housing. It's a miserable job. All underneath work, reaching up in, working by feel, while crap is falling down your neck! The flywheel/clutch/pressure plate comes off with the input shaft housing/assembly.

I think you can then probably remove the throwout bearing, and the bearing retainer/sleeve it rides on, and get to the trans input shaft/seal.

It's not necessary to remove the sheave halves to work on the clutch. What I can't remember is how close the interference is between the left turning brake and sheaves. That can be a challenge. On bigger combines the sheaves could be unbolted from the hub to aid in disassembly/assembly while avoiding the brake. If I recall correctly, the K sheaves are one piece.
 
Did this many times on the F, there were some tricks to it, but I'm not familiar with a K so best not confuse the issue. My F was a good machine, but those shaft bearings went out every 12-18 months.

Paul
 
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