More fingers is always better, right?

My new-to-me 315 had 5 fingers busted in the center. It also has four finger holes covered with sheet steel. I assume it was once on an M, which is narrower and wouldn't need the fingers. Since I'm putting it on an L2, should I install those 4 missing fingers? It would be super easy because the mounting brackets are in there, just not being used.

Amazingly, the tube isn't bent up at all.

I don't think there is a difference in the number of fingers for either model. The L
is wider, but the auger will feed in just as well, because the feeder beater is wider
and runs faster than the auger. Put all the fingers in for smoother feeding to the
feeder beater and avoid slugs which may plug it. Ben

(quoted from post at 17:39:24 10/17/17) I don't think there is a difference in the number of fingers for either model. The L
is wider, but the auger will feed in just as well, because the feeder beater is wider
and runs faster than the auger. Put all the fingers in for smoother feeding to the
feeder beater and avoid slugs which may plug it. Ben

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Well, I don't think it could have been on an F because the top cover would have to have been different, why would someone run with less fingers?

Too cheap to replace them? Dunno. Ben

They're cheap and easy to replace.

(quoted from post at 10:27:36 10/18/17) They're cheap and easy to replace.

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I'm gonna have to disagree with the "cheap" and the "easy" part.

First, The "cheap" - AGCO dealer gets $27 apiece for the fingers, $4.50 apiece for the plastic guide, and $12 for the steel and bottom covers. I reused most of my covers even tough the last guy let the plastic guides wear so far that the covers are ground open twice as wide as they are supposed to. I found the fingers used at Mike's equipment in Buhler Kansas for $14 apiece for 10.

Second the "easy" - The design leaves a lot to be desired. The steel fingers are threaded into an aluminium block that is on a piece of round stock that controls the retracting. When the finger breaks, it breaks at the tread and leaves the threads in the block. It's just about impossible to get a drill in there to use an easy out, so now you gotta take the control rod. Well, first you gotta remove all the good fingers. They're threadlocked in, so every one fights you, and you either have to use a pipe wrench or a 5/8 open end wrench. Then, you find out that you can't get the other end out because they just drilled a hole and used a jam bolt to hold it on. So then you take all the blocks off the round stock and drill, heat, and easy out the broken ones.

I got all that done and will have to put it all back together this afternoon. Not looking forward to it. The guy helping me said he can change Deere fingers in about 5 minutes. I think I came close to hearing a Mennonite swear over the whole ordeal. He left to do his own farming and I gotta try and put it together with a still-broken wrist by myself.

Sorry, my day ain't goin' well.