1660 rotor belt broke

Nephew start on beans to day didn't make a round before the belt shredded .Rotor was not choked up.This is the first rotor machine
I have been around he talk to the parts man he said that the torque sensor could be bad how does check this on the combine before he has the dealer come out to do it.

If you don't know the condition of the old belt I'd just change it
out and keep going. Adjust it per the manual. You'll need the
special tool to fit the belt. If your running in tough conditions,
it's a good idea to fit 2 new rotor belts while you have it apart.
Zip tie one of them in behind the drive pulley and it makes
changing it next time much easier. Check you're upper and
lower limit switches on the VS are working while you are in
there.
I had a 1680 that was eating rotor belts. Dealer said I needed
the variable speed torque limit thing rebuilt. Nearly $4k later
and it didn't fix my problem!!!

I've been impressed with the service/repair information in the manual. However, when I changed the rotor belt on my 1660, I had to take more apart than the manual showed. I hired a local independent repair person to help, and I'm glad I did. I would have been very frustrated alone. I don't recall reading about checking the driven/spring loaded pulley. I give those rollers a shot of grease every day, and you can see where they are working. I changed my belt when I started seeing cracks in it. I imagine your belt was just ready to go.

(quoted from post at 19:21:11 09/28/17) Nephew start on beans to day didn't make a round before the belt shredded .Rotor was not choked up.This is the first rotor machine
I have been around he talk to the parts man he said that the torque sensor could be bad how does check this on the combine before he has the dealer come out to do it.

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one thing on any Veritable speed belt make sure you turn it over by hand a few times before you put power to it i seen them be totally riped apart because the guy didnt roll it over let both shrive adjust to the new belt

There's a lot of things that cause a rotor belt on
those machines to let go prematurely and I've
experienced about all of them.

1. Heat is a belts enemy. If the belt is not properly
adjusted or torque sensing unit is not properly
working the belt can slip under load. A worn out
spring could also be the culprit. Once it starts
slipping heat will cause it to disintegrate shortly.
Monitor your rotor speed and engine speed. If rotor
speed drops and engine doesn't, your belt is
slipping. This is why the newer 23 series have a
groove in the driven pulley, to provide extra grip and
cooling.

2. Pulleys misaligned. If you notice, the drive pulley
frame is held on by 4 bolts. It is possible to get this
pulley misaligned from the driven. This will cause
the belt to pulled on from one side, ripping it straight
across under load. Get a professional to check your
alignment as it is difficult to do.

3. Engaging separator at anything greater than
1200 engine RPM can cause belt to shred if rotor is
not empty.

Do not follow the book when changing the belt. It
can be done easily in 20-25 min.

1. Take 4 bolts out of PTO shaft.
2. Take rotor speed chain off.
3. Take out long bolt on rotor speed retainer.
4. Close drive pulley ALL THE WAY.
5. Loosen bottom separator belt support.
6. Work belt around PTO shaft, rotor speed adjuster
and put one end on drive pulley.
7. Open drive pulley ALL THE WAY.
8. Work belt onto torque sensing hub.
9. Use a pry bar to open driven pulley as much as
possible.
10. Wedge a piece of old belt into driven pulley to
keep it open.
11. Roll new rotor belt onto driven pulley from the
bottom.
12. Remove old piece of belt.
13. Attach everything else you took off.
14. The proper tension on belt is achieved when the
driven pulley measures 3-3.25" inches across with
drive pulley all the way open.

Thanks for the info he had the dealer come out and change it.He was worry about pulleys being misalignment.All looked good the tech said the belt looked like the belt that put on at the factory.Question what speed does the rotor need to be run with specially rotor in green stem beans up until he had just used this combine for corn.

700-750 is a good starting point. Might run it up to
800 if it's not splitting beans and you want a little
more capacity. You might want to run the last two
veins in the fast position too to get the material out
of the cage quicker

If he is green stem 700 750 rpm is not heard of just keeping checking for splits.