55 John deere rasp bars

The 55 combine I bought has concaves that's are bent a little. I was going to straighten it but there was a 55 in the combine demolition derby at our local fair and the concave in it looks pretty good. I ended buying this whole combine for parts. It has rasp bars with every other tooth cut off and the remaining ones are welded up with what looks like hard surfacing rod. Would the stock bars or these be better for soy beans. Also this machine has filler plates. Should I use these for beans.
 
No filler plates in mine for corn or beans. I do have them just do not use them. Might need them sometime if we would ever have a wet fall and hi moisture corn. I have a 55 for parts but the bars are shot. There was a post on here recently about a Gleaner that had every other bar ground off. Tom
 
That might be a set of Trimpe cyl bars in the combine. Never had a set, but some folks really like them. Probably better in tough conditions?
 
I have a set in my old 7720 and will eat tuff stem beans better then the 9500 or 9510. They are a little ruff on wet corn tho. BTW the trimpe bars are welded up close to me. I think they are not longer doing it.
 
I worked on taking the concaves out of my parts machine today. The concave is pretty good but it does have a couple of the rods that are trying to come out. There is a nut on the 1 end but there doesn't seem to be anything on the other end to keep them from coming out. Also every other rod is missing. Should the concave have a rod in every hole? The rasp bars look good except for 1. It is bent. The support bar behind the rasp bar is also bent. Can these be straightened or will they break?
 
Jim several parts to your question. The book will tell you how many rods in the concave for different crops. Never had those modified cylinder bars but cannot understand a reason for them. You do not want the filler plates in for beans but for corn, the book also tells you this in the setting section. And the bars can be straightened in a press and I have done that for the 45, even if the backing plate was slightly bent and it works OK. I have also taken the backing plate off and tried straightening them without much luck, if they were straight flat no problem but it is like trying to straighten out a bent angle iron, cannot do it,yes you can get it better at times than what it was. What I have done id get good backing bars from a parts machine and also cylinder bars And replaced only what was bad. Use a fine thread 3/8" bolt to hold things together where orignally was rivits. Same bolt that holds the bars in.. Those modified bars were advertised only for corn when they came out and I have no idea how they would work for any crop, I think I would be desperate to put them in tho. I think they would crack more corm kernels. For putting the filler bars in we bought an extra long 1/2" extension to reach completley through the cylinder to tighten up the bolts that hold the plates in or for changing the cylinder bars I don't remember for sure but one job it is easier to have what you want to do at the back of culinder and have a long enough wrench to reach completely through and put your impact wrench on the outside.
 
I have 2 machines so I'm sure I can get enough rasp bar backer bars that are straight but like you say, they are originally rivoted in. Id like to take out the whole rotor on the parts machine and save it but it looks like I will have to loosen up the clamps that clamps the rotor to the shaft and then slide the shaft out. It looks like the rotor wont be very willing to slide on the shaft even after the clamps are loose. I would just torch a big hole in side of the parts machine but my son wants to take it to the combine derby again next year.
 

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