Rasp bars with every other rasp ground of..,

rockyridgefarm

Well-known Member
This M2 I bought last fall had rasp bars with every other rasp ground off. Supposedly, they're really good for corn and beans. I'm trying to harvest swathed rye and am having a nearly impossible time of it. The combine is almost constantly slugging and popping the cylinder door open. Is there a chance that these rasp bars could be part of my problem? I do have two parts combines that I could pull bars out of to try, but don't want spend the time if it's not gonna help

Also, I really don't have a way to speed up and slow down the pickup head. I figure that is Also a part of my problem. I don't see an obvious way to control the speed of the head, though there are wires coming outta the head that are not compatable with my combine's hookup
 
Did your rye wash away? We got 5 inches. I need one more day to finish mine. The yeild is not so good this year either. I have lots of huge windrows of very wet straw. The 105 is working great, just need air conditioning for me. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 14:28:36 07/21/17) Did your rye wash away? We got 5 inches. I need one more day to finish mine. The yeild is not so good this year either. I have lots of huge windrows of very wet straw. The 105 is working great, just need air conditioning for me. Tom

Dunno the total so far. The air works in my M2, but that doesn't mean anything if the machine isnt working right. I may just pull the rasp bars outta my doner machine and see if it helps. The parts machine have a/c if you'd want to try retrofitting air onto your green machine
 
Never combined rye with my M-3, but direct cut oats with the wide space bars, and they worked fine. I'd bet feeding is more of your problem, unless the bars are worn out.
 
is the pickup ran off a orbit motor? If so, you need to wire in the wiring harness to the reel speed switch to get control of the speed control to vary the pickup speed.

The only header that you should ever vary speed of the header driveshaft with the variable speed feederhouse is the corn header.

It sounds like you have Trimpe bars, and as long as the rasps are good, they should do OK.

Is the swathed rye nice and dry? header and feederhouse floor shiny?

Usually the feeder beater will plug, and the cylinder should usually plug before the door should ever trip. I am wondering if the latch bar teeth are wore bad and its not holding well, or the latch plate is wore. make sure its shimmed correctly too.

The feeder beater clutch has likely been bypassed by the previous owner, I like to have it set properly so the feeder beat plug easy, much easier to unplug a small slug.

One thing that might help is to get rid of the 38 tooth drive sprocket in favor of the 44 tooth. slower speed, so it has more torque and wont be as apt to send big wads in. Its standard on corn soybean models, standard grain machines with the v-belt header drive (non-VS feeder house) had the 38 tooth standard.

What year is the machine, and do you have the cylinder speed and concave clearance set correctly?
 
Were the rasps that were not ground off built up with hard surface rod? I have those in my 7720 and that thing will eat beans. If the stems are green I can run them that old combine faster and cleaner than the 9500 or 9510 can. In wet corn it grinds it awful bad.
 
What did you cut the swaths with? I am in the camp about feeding being the problem... rigging the thing to reel speed might be a good option.

But here is another thought. When chopping forage, it'll usually feed (and pick up)better if you go the same direction the windrower did. Which direction are you trying to go relative to the way it was
swathed??? I'm guessing if you are going the opposite direction the swather did, it will not feed as even and cause problems...
 
I have been curious about that too - I would love to try those Ausherman rasp bars in my L3 or M3, but I worry how my small grains would go.

The enclosed upgrade is interesting for the L3 but..... Just always wonder if I take 2 steps forward and back with the full crop mix.

Paul
 
Aushermann bars work great...maybe not so much with every other missing. Not familiar with Gleaner...are the filler bars out of the cylinder.
More capacity in small grain with them out.
 
(quoted from post at 21:29:31 07/21/17) is the pickup ran off a orbit motor? If so, you need to wire in the wiring harness to the reel speed switch to get control of the speed control to vary the pickup speed.

The only header that you should ever vary speed of the header driveshaft with the variable speed feederhouse is the corn header.

It sounds like you have Trimpe bars, and as long as the rasps are good, they should do OK.

Is the swathed rye nice and dry? header and feederhouse floor shiny?

Usually the feeder beater will plug, and the cylinder should usually plug before the door should ever trip. I am wondering if the latch bar teeth are wore bad and its not holding well, or the latch plate is wore. make sure its shimmed correctly too.

The feeder beater clutch has likely been bypassed by the previous owner, I like to have it set properly so the feeder beat plug easy, much easier to unplug a small slug.

One thing that might help is to get rid of the 38 tooth drive sprocket in favor of the 44 tooth. slower speed, so it has more torque and wont be as apt to send big wads in. Its standard on corn soybean models, standard grain machines with the v-belt header drive (non-VS feeder house) had the 38 tooth standard.

What year is the machine, and do you have the cylinder speed and concave clearance set correctly?

Thanks for the good advice. I already have the 44 tooth sprocket on the feeder beater. Do I set the slip clutch lighter to get it to plug before the cylinder?

My rock trap door had a broken hinge on the lock. I am replacing it with another door from the donor machine.
 

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