IH 1660, 863 corn head

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
Headed for Chicago for a few days. Before leaving I thought I would run a sample and get her tested at the elevator. I have a recurring problem with the 863 corn head I thought I would bounce off the experts. Third row from the left and the left side of the row looking down from above. The chain will stop running periodically. Did it several times last season. Already did it once this year just running a few bushels for a sample. Here is what happens and what I have done to fix it:

Seems like a simple thing. You have a drive sprocket and a driven sprocket and a chain that runs around them. The roll pin on the drive sprocket keeps shearing. At first I thought it was flying out so I put a strong wire thru the center and twisted it in place...gone. Tried a bolt, broke. Near as I can tell, the only thing that could cause this is something jerking the chain. So I replaced both sprockets just in case a tooth or two was hooked and catching the chain. This did not work. I do not remember if this is a new chain or not. When I get back I am going to look under there and see if the snoot is able to rattle down into the chain at any point (like when I raise and lower the head). I cannot find anything else. Like I said, it is all new except possibly the chain. It is not a hard repair to replace a pin, but it is a REAL nuisance to keep driving in to the shed almost daily. I'm a one man show these days with both kids at school. I cannot afford the down time. Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts.
 
Chain properly tensioned? No interference points on the stripper plates or stalk way?Front idler sprocket turns freely? Hmm, can't think of anything else.... Ben
 
You may want to check the condition of the hole in the gearbox shaft. A worn or sloppy fit there will cause your problem.
 
I will do that when I get back. There was a hole that was wallered out but I thought that was on the old sprocket. It's a problem if it is the shaft. I would have to scratch my head some to fix that problem. Just don't care to put a new pin in every friggin day...or twice a day.
 
I was wondering about the chain. I think it is fine but will check. I'm going to check the entire chain path for any tight clearances or shiny spots. It's a puzzle, this one. Nothing I do seems to fix it.
 
Dave if the hole in the shaft is worn it will shear the pin. What I have done is fill the hole with JB Weld and drill it out to the correct size. It is not a permanent fix but on a few acres it will work for a period of time.
 
Other than the hole being wallowed out, you can put in the roll pin, then drive another smaller roll pin inside the first one. Almost doubles up the strength.
 
I could give it a try. Wonder how hard it is to change out that shaft? If I have to drop the whole gear box it could easily be two days in the cold sand under a scary heavy piece of equipment...but I would do it. Parts on a machine this old need a lot of coaxing to come apart without breaking...so time consuming. Won't know for a bit if it is the hole in the shaft or not but I guess I should start thinking about it.
 
I think you are making an assumption at the end there. Worth a try, I suppose, but I need it in the game for more than a few acres. Breaking down even once a day is too much.
 
(quoted from post at 11:24:31 11/09/16) I could give it a try. Wonder how hard it is to change out that shaft? If I have to drop the whole gear box it could easily be two days in the cold sand under a scary heavy piece of equipment...but I would do it. Parts on a machine this old need a lot of coaxing to come apart without breaking...so time consuming. Won't know for a bit if it is the hole in the shaft or not but I guess I should start thinking about it.

if you decide to replace the shaft there is an upgrade kit that you can buy from Clark machine and Abilene machine that converts that shaft to a threaded shaft like the 9 and 1000 series. much better than trying to use that roll pin or bolt. I did one row on my 843. I took the gear box off but someone else said that you can do it one the head. they said it is tight but do able. there are some bushings you can replace while you are in there. it was a job.

http://www.abilenemachine.com/case-ih-combines-cornhead-topshaft-conversion-kit-AM176371KIT.html

http://www.clarkemachine.com/catalog2013.pdf

scroll down to the cih section

hth

good luck!

Duane
 
That looks like a good solution. Affordable too. I'll study the parts diagram and talk to my guy at CIH and discuss how hard to it is to swap those out. I generally do OK with the drive line components once I get the sleeves freed up to slide out the drive shaft...but maybe this can be done either from the top or thru the gearbox bottom cover? I will look into it. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Thanks Duane! FYI...I had the bottom cover off the spindle gear box today and can tell you there is no way that spindle is coming out the bottom. The gear fills the cast box side to side and the spindle cannot be turned to get it past the header frame/toolbar as long as the gear is still inside and it does not drop far enough to get the gear to clear the box. REALLY poor design. Another 1/4" and likely it would drop out. So this job is on hold for next summer when I have the time. Since spindle hole is bushed out on both sides, I am going to try a hard bolt in there with a locking nut. May have to replace a few times before I am done but I have gotten pretty fast at doing that. I'll get her done next year. It's involved, but definitely can be done.
 

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