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Gleaner M2 straw walkers - weak?

rockyridgefarm

rockyridgefarm

Well-known Member
Hey all,

After having a lot of trouble trying to cut beans, I found that my m2's straw walkers are busted up at the far end. The grates are busted up, repaired, and busted up again. I pulled a walker from my short shoe m2 parts machine to take pieces off and found they're all busted up, too. Someone spent a lot of time brazing cracks, and the brazing is cracked out again. I'll be able to fix these up to do the 35 acres of beans I need, but then I'm gonna have to pull them and fix them up.

The wood blocks on my working M2 are worn out, wonder if the extra banging sped up this damage. But, the blocks in the short shoe m2 are tight, so maybe not.

Are Gleaner walkers just weak?

On a side note, I had to cut a hole on top to get to them. I'll just cut a piece off my parts machine to mend it. Why didn't Gleaner put an access door on the top of the walker housing like Deere did?
 
I don't know about other machines, but my opinion is that Gleaner walkers won't take much overloading. Every one I've had, bought used, needed some repair. But then after I did that, no more problems. They don't weigh much at all, so getting some wet material plugged in there really adds forces to the whole mechanism. The biggest machine I had was an F2. At least on that, when trying to do corn with snow, when the walkers filled, you had a mess, but no damage.(Assuming you stopped in time!) Neighbor with his L2, with that separate pan, had a different story. Everything started colliding in there when it plugged up with wet material, and it's not just a mess to clean out, but some fixing is in order too!
 
We have had some Gleaners with walkers like
you describe, and some that have been in
perfect shape. M2 and K2 combines. Never
plugged the M2, but the K2's will bend the
brackets that attach the straw walkers
almost every time if you plug them. They
will destroy and damage them like you have
noticed if they got plugged up really bad.
If the snap on side doors pop off, you've
got a problem, and probably at least some
straightening of the straw walker brackets
in the least.
 
Can you cut the rivets on the back panel, repair the walkers, and use some small
bolts to reattach the panel. Seems easier than cutting a hole. Ben
 
I just figured something out. I was reading through the manual (just bought this combine a few weeks ago), and see that machines with a straw chopper need to have a rubber curtain and rear shield when used in corn. My machine has a straw chopper on it, but no rubber curtain or rear shield. I think the back end of the walkers got destroyed by flying cobs. There's also holes in the sheet metal on the top from internal impacts.
 
That's for sure. The front end, near the raddle is where I have seen damage from wet material build up, but with an unprotected chopper in corn, you can destroy the back end! There were different walker rear end covers for my F2 for use with the chopper.
 
Yes, you need the rear curtain, but also the steel shield that sets on top of the front of the chopper...it funnels cobs into the chopper, and since the area is closed off, it prevents cobs from flying into the rear of the walkers. If the walkers are plugging, the monitor should alert you before damage occurs. BTW- you need walkers? I have a parts M2.
 
Another question- my short shoe parts combine has these grids made of small round stock wired to the bottom of the walkers. This combine has one on one walker. my old M2 never had them. Looks like they just make the square holes smaller to keep bigger material from fall down onto the shaker pan. Are these a good option to keep on? i can't find them in my manual.
 
(quoted from post at 10:23:51 11/06/16) I have left the curtain in whether using the chopper or not, without any issues. M3.
Ben
Click to expand...

I plan on leaving it in at all times, and I don't plan on taking the chopper off ever. But I need to get one before I can do that. Just have 38 acres of beans left, so not in a big hurry to get one, but one will be in before I shell corn again.
 
I have repaired a good many Cleaner walkers in years past. I found that spot welding them worked better than trying to braze a complete crack. They are made out of thin high tinsel steel. This makes them light but it also means they will crack with age.

I would slide light gauge flat steel on the inside of the sides. I then drilled rows of small holes in the walker. Clamp the flat steel tight and weld the holes shut. On some I would fit the steel to go full length. Most of the time just over the bearing mounts or the rear parts.
 
IIRC they"re normally attached to the top of the walker. Keeps cobs from sticking in the walkers, plugging them with small trash so the grain can"t move to the shoe. Something to check every day.
 
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