F2 Gleaner Input Sheave and Clutch

HJ · Nov 1, 2016

Running the F2 this weekend and got to where it would not pull well in 2nd gear when the hopper was full. It is a manual transmission with the variable speed. Well last night the clutch quit working and I could tell that the input sheave bearing was out because of the movement and rattle it had. First question is how does it come apart, and second is if the clutch housing is shot are there any available to buy?I did a couple searches on here and found out a little info but I need more and hopefully a service manual picture of how it comes apart.

JMS/.MN · Nov 1, 2016

Dunno about the F2, but if you want to take the clutch out on an F, you need to remove a couple of bolts that hold the left axle to the frame, jack that side up about 2 inches, and the clutch can come out.

Bob Bancroft · Nov 1, 2016

Best as I can recall- first- make use of the belt/pulley/spring pressure, with the variable speed speeded up to put pressure on the pulley/hub- take off the big nut on the end of the shaft, and pound on the hub- it's keyed on a tapered shaft. It should pop loose, then you can disassemble the lower sheaves/hub, etc. and get them off there/out of the way.

Then there's a circle of a dozen or so 3/8" fine thread bolts which hold the input housing on. Flywheel/pressure plate/clutch assembly will come with that housing, as they're mounted on the inner end of the input shaft.

The shaft is much more likely to sustain damage than the housing. I used to get those parts from Spallinger's in Ohio.

paul · Nov 1, 2016

Wood blocks and a good jack, take the left front wheel off, block it. Seems like a lot of work, but it makes life so much easier to get that wheel out of the way........

Take the big nut off the input shaft, pull the sheve off.

Take the bolts out around the clutch bell housing. Understand when the last bolt comes out it will drop on you, and it is manageable but heavy.

The housing won't actually come out tho, they made it not come out the hole by an inch or to. Mine had torch cuts on the rear of the frame in that triangle and mine came out. As other said, you'll need to take some bolts loose and get 2 more inches of clearance.

There you are, you have the input shaft with the 2 bad bearings.

Takes about an hour when you get good at it. One of my F series had so,etching wrong, we did this once a year or every 18 months....... Not a bad job once you do it a time or two,

lee little · Nov 2, 2016

I have never worked on any of the F series but have found out while working on my K's that Oakley Combine in Oxford N.C. has nearly every part for the older Gleaners. Awesome folks to deal with and I cant say enough about how knowledgeable and helpful they are. Lee

HJ · Nov 2, 2016

Thanks everyone for the answers. I have a good understanding of it now. I am going to get some bearings ordered and tackle it next weekend.

F2 Gleaner Input Sheave and Clutch

HJ

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JMS/.MN

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Bob Bancroft

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paul

Well-known Member

lee little

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HJ

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