Gleaner F2 Cylinder Bars

James Lieb · Oct 2, 2016

Had 3 bars in 2,4&5 saw alot of chipped corn,also leaving some on cob.Cylinder speed set at 450 rpm.Changed bars,now running 1,3&5,closed concave 1/16 of an inch.Seems to be doing better.Corn is 15.5% moisture.Does anybody have any suggestions or recommend any changes?

Bob Bancroft · Oct 2, 2016

We could never get dry corn like that out of the field. 1,3&5 sounds a lot better than 2,4&5. I'm assuming your #1 is on the front/stone door?

Dad used to put "half rounds" in his E. He thought that was better. On my last Gleaner, an F2, I worked to minimize changes between crops. I got all rasp type concave sections, and put in all 6 rows,(if I remember correctly!) and used it that way for everything.

JMS/.MN · Oct 2, 2016

You"re talking about concave bars, not cyl bars. You never want to run without #1...it is needed for rock protection
...or tree branches, iron, any foreign material.

gbs · Oct 2, 2016

we use 1,3,5 concave bars,with the clearance as tight as possible and still get whole cobbs out the rear,ours is set on 5/8" but yours may vary depending on how the scales are adjusted,we use 420 up to 500 cylinder speed depending on the corn,we try to run it as slow as possible to avoid cracking,best move we made was a set of rebuilt cylinder bars with every other tooth removed they greatly increased the capacity of the machine.

Oliver Farmer in MI · Oct 2, 2016

Cylinder bars should be at 1-3-5 for corn and soybeans. Never run without #1 on the door. That's how the rock protection works. Clearance will be 5/8 - 3/4, depending on conditions. Cylinder speed 400-500. Fan set to 6-7.

paul · Oct 2, 2016

Or the rock I found on the cutter bar this afternoon.

I'll have to get a pic tomorrow, after the nightmares of what could have happened, go away........ Actually it woulda dented or bent the header auger, too big to get past the feeder drum. Well, anyhow without taking a lot of pieces with it.

Paul

JMS/.MN · Oct 3, 2016

I"ve had them on occasion. Not fun if you don"t have a header drive clutch, watching it SLOWLY come to a stop, hoping it doesn"t pop off of the cutterbar, into the auger. I really don"t like those that jam the feeder beater. I carry a pipe in the cab to "reverse" the FB- rolling the fields really cuts down on rock pickup.

fastfarmall · Oct 4, 2016

How do they remove those deep angled rasp's in the cylinder bars ? I know instead of U bars in the concave they have a rasp bar that's available for concaves as well as half moon bars, but i think there for beans.

Gleaner F2 Cylinder Bars

James Lieb

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Bob Bancroft

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JMS/.MN

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gbs

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Oliver Farmer in MI

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paul

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JMS/.MN

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fastfarmall

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