(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

8820 JD Feeder House Clutch

H

Howard H.

Well-known Member

I bought a pretty nice old 8820 JD for wheat harvest this year - and its been a nice combine. The only thing wrong I've found was the electric header clutch switch wouldn't engage. Just to get going, I read about bolting the drive sheave to the inner sheave with two bolts so it drives all the time.

That worked fine, until it broke the two bolts off - inside the inner pulley.

Does anyone have any tips on the easiest way to get those out? Will I just need to pull the outer pulley off??

The bolts coming loose knocked the electric brush holder off the end of the shaft. With it off, I put 12 volts straight to the shaft electrical contacts and the clutch seems to engage fine, and I'm getting power to the leads there, so I guess that brush holder was the problem all along...

The only trouble is, JD will have to order it, so it will take several days, and I'm almost finished cutting, so I'd rather bolt it up again just to finish.


Thanks for any advice,
Howard
 
That pulley is a pain to pull and heavy. I would try to drill and easy out them first,they should not be seized do to only being in a short time. I had the same trouble on my 7720 so I changed brush and still no luck. Found no power to it so I made a jumper wire to the turn signal and just turned it on and off that way till I fixed the wire a mouse has eaten.
 
Thanks for the info!

Does the brush just pull and snap off?? Mine is already off, but I didnt know if that means its broken or if it just got pushed off.

The brushes inside were definitely worn out.


Howard
 
The bolts actually tread into the hub of the clutch plate. It would be very difficult to get them out without removing the pulley. It would be a good idea to remove the pulley so you can inspect the clutch plate anyways. Word of advice, it takes a good puller to get the pulley off! There are four spring straps that attach the outer plate to the inner hub. They tend to break. If they are broken applying current to the clutch will still sometimes lock it up enough to turn the feeder house when you rotate it by hand but it will not hold under a load. One other thought, that clutch hub is only about a 1/4 thick. Can you see the broken bolts in there or by chance did they come loose and take out the brush holder on the way out? Maybe stripped the treads out to?
 
Yes the ones in the outer pulley. There are also threaded holes to lock the assembly in the hub of the clutch plate. There are three components to the clutch, the outer pulley, the clutch plate that the magnet in the outer pulley pulls into itself and the inner pulley that the clutch plate bolts to. The inner pulley and plate assembly free floats on the shaft.
 

In playing a bit with this, I fixed the brush holder and verified that the clutch switch in the cab WAS getting power to the brush holder...

BUT I noticed it was only 10.5 volts (even though the combine has dual, very good, hot batteries)...

So just for kicks, I hooked the brush holder straight up to a battery sitting on the ladder, and the clutch kicks in fine!

Since we are out in the middle of redneckville, anyway, (ha ha) we are finishing up by just running that way...

But any ideas on why only 10.5 volts from the cab and/or why a battery direct connected works fine???

There are no other electrical problems with the combine that I've found...

Does the clutch itself ever give trouble?? We ran dads 8820-T2 way, way past any normal life expectancy and replaced about every part on that machine 3 times over, but I don't remember the clutch ever giving trouble...

Thanks for all the advice!
Howard
 
There's probably a dirty connection or two in the wiring from the fuseblock/cab relay to the header switch to the clutch.

Simply install a "Bosch-style relay" near the clutch, bring good (fused) battery power to the relay, and trigger the relay with the lead that's now connects to the clutch and all will be well.

<img src = "http://d2ydh70d4b5xgv.cloudfront.net/images/b/c/tyco-12v-relay-bosch-style-spdt-20-30a-model-vdcv23234-a1001-x036-with-harness-6856640aec6f0484dcffad6e4430925b.jpg">

<img src = "http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/basicrelay.jpg">

Wire that now goes to the clutch will be the "trigger", also, you may need to use a fuse larger than the 15 Amp shown.
 
I have exact same issue on my 8820, with the header clutch having loosing tension. I was going to rewire it, but the relay idea by the clutch sounds great. It seems weird anyway that the wires for the Warner unit are 4 times the section than the ones on the combine.
I will try to clean up the connections, but I am really unsure that it is a good idea to mess with the connectors?
 
Update:

I was reading 9.8V at the magnet with engine stopped (12.2V at the battery). I had to installed a relay by the clutch and had to reroute the command wire, as the original one was bad right at the tee by the connector under the grain bin.

With a bigger wire from the clutch to the button in the cab (no relay), I was seeing 10.2V at the magnet.
With the relay, I am reading 11Volts at the magnet (12.2 at the relay by the clutch), I believe the loss of amps is correct and due to the diode in the warner unit. (One of the wire has a resistance fo of about 6 ohms).
The resistance of the magnet is 2.9 Ohms, which is correct per the manual.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Re: 8820 JD Feeder House Clutch
Replies
0
Views
367
Tramway Guy
T
Y
Upper feeder house belt on jd 4400
Replies
1
Views
380
Big Fat Herb
B
P
Gleaner clutch wires protection
Replies
11
Views
1K
chcase
C
I
Lilliston 7-six spindle info
Replies
0
Views
316
imatkel
I
Joe Ferguson
MF-1428V electric PTO clutch
Replies
3
Views
173
wp6529
W
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top