Danney970

Member
I have a f2 hydro long tail 4x4. I have a
problem with it grinding corn to the point
it effects my foreign materialstudents at
the mill. I have flipped cylinder bars
changed concave bars and position played
with cylinder speed and clearances within
any change. I am running a deere 444 head on
it. Any ideas would be great.
 
Speed makes feed- should have the large pulley on the cyl...15 inch, slows to about 500 rpm. Always leave the door concave on, to keep rock protection, but how many other bars do you run- 1-2? Bars may be just too worn for efficient shelling.
 
Close or open the cyclinder clearance until whole cobs come out the back.

Speed up the cyclinder to shell better, or slow it down to stop grinding kernels. Start at 500, but keep going slower even if you get away from their range in the book, if that's what it takes.

Those are the basics.

What moisture are you working with, real wet corn over 24 or so is tough to get off rubbery cobs, while real dry corn at 13% its hard not to crack it as its so hard. Different types of corn work better or worse as well.

Paul
 
Cylinder speed cracks, run as slow as you can to get even feeding, your cylinder bars could be worn to the point they can't grab any thing so crop sits and grinds, moisture also affects grinding. Bottom sieve open enough, so a large amount of clean grain isn't being rethreshed.
 
20" cylinder pulley, new edge on cylinder bars,18-22% moisture new concave bars (2) currently replacing bolth elevator chains and doing other maintenance for next year.
 
Screens on the bottom of the clean grain elevator will eliminate most of the fines. Using half round cylinder bars will help if the corn is dry.

Ben
 
most of the time with dry corn we only run 400 rpm on the cylinder with filler bars for the cylinder installed and concave bars 1,3,5 as mentioned open the concave enough to get whole clean cobs, with some corn even though its dry you will have to tighten the concaves a little or increase the rpms a little to get the corn off the cob, to get down to 400 or less on our F3 we have to install a 20" cylinder pulley,a worn set of rasp bars in tuff to shell corn don't help matters,not suggesting you don't recognize how bad they can be worn, but the first set of gleaner bars I changed from what I knew of the appearance of worn bars in other brands was misleading compaired to the apex type bars gleaner uses,they can be turned around once and even when worn down if turned at the proper time they appear to be in reasonable shape but are actually worn out
 
Good comments from other posters. Make sure that your sieve it not so tight that you are returning to much corn back to cylinder.
 
Good cylinder bars, 2 or 3 concaves, about 400 rpm on cylinder. Speed cracks more than tightness I was taught. And what goes through return more apt to grind. Make sure your sieves are open and do not be stingy with the fan. Slow down. Dad and I used to run F and F2 Gleaners.
 

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