Looking at Gleaner F2

Going to look at a f2 Saturday from an estate auction never had a combine what do I need to look for selling with both heads in southern ky what would be a fair price for gas or diesel ad doesn't say which it is

The 1977 F2 was really just a F with a cosmetic upgrade.

In 1978 they actually upgraded with bigger sieve and new controls and stuff. Engines changed as well. This makes thrm a tad more
complicated electrically, but can handle bigger corn yields.

Seems gas machines even with heads rarely bring $1000 any more. Disel machine might ask about $5000. I've seen some go $10,000, others
go $1000.

Depends on the market for smaller combines in your area.

Paul

The change that paul talks about...going to the "long shoe"...means sn 39201 or above is the higher capacity machine. Besides belts, check chains for wear. Including the raddle (like a manure spreader apron, with cross slats) chain- long one running inside the combine that takes material back to the shoe. Remove side covers and lift the chain, check for wear in the pins. New one for an M2 is about $750, F2 would be similar. What options? Straw chopper or spreader, monitor options, gear drive or hydro, along with gas/diesel. Any heads with it....

As JMS said, that raddle chain and the floor under it are really important. I just took a couple of links outta mine yesterday and put in an offset. Was kind of a bear to do, but I figure it was better than replacing the chain and floor when it got rolled up inside the machine.

Along with the raddle chain, look under the throat, at the cover for the raddle. It collects material there, and if it sits outside, water soaks the material, and the idlers and cover get ruined pretty quickly. I just put mine on to run yesterday, and need to go over this morning and remove it again.

Also, on the cab entrance side, halfway or a little farther back, there is a small sprocket (maybe on the fan shaft), driving a large sprocket. Check for wear. Those seem to be worn bad on many machines and I think one reason is that the small sprocket is threaded onto that shaft, and a booger to take off. Most of them have never been replaced.

Look at the crossauger troughs underneath, toward the back. They usually have been repaired, or still have holes in them. I need to repair mine, but am not sure the best way to do it.

Grain tank bottoms can be repaired, if they are not completely gone. I put a poly bottom in mine this summer, and it wasn't too bad a job to do.

Do a search on here. There's lots of good info. Hope this helps.