200 Series Flex Shoes

4020_guy

Member
Can all the shoes be changed from the bottom and what holds the front of the stainless seals under the cutter bar? I was thinking of standing the head on it's back[feeder house opening down]and doing one shoe at a time. Has anyone used the shoes from Shoup and how would they compare to JD's? Thanks in advance....Ron
 
If you are talking about the skid plates, I have bought them from Shoup and found they are heavier and much cheaper. I dropped the cylinder stop and put the loader bucket under the head while i changed them.
 
Are you talking about the skid plates that actually run on the ground???? I have seem them that are pretty thin and just covered them with ploy plates and go on. I usually just remove them one or two at a time and put them back on. The on with the sickle gear case is the hardest. I usually take it off and then change that plate. They are actually harder to change with the header standing up. Things just do not line up right that way and the header sickle area is head high so your working with your arms up in the air a lot.

IF your talking about the flex sheets that are on the top they get changes form the top. The flat piece of steel that all the sections bolt to is what holds the flex sheets down. The is a clip on the bottom that catches on the skids shoes and then the entire top edge is tucked under the sickle back.
 
I just replaced all of the stainless on my 922 last year. It was a hand cutting, blue streak cussing, all day wasting good time. You want the header on for that as you can put it at the right height for you. It isn't a job for one person. Did I mention gloves?

I was losing beans because the edge at the sickle had worn enough that the rivets were busting off of the metal strip that stiffens them. The long strips back under the cross auger hold it down. Once you get those strips off (and don't lose a finger on that sharp flighting) take pictures with your cell phone or draw out how they overlap. Then you slide the stainless backwards and out from under the sickle.

Did anyone tell you that the new pieces come flat? That's when I knew I was toast. You have to blow everything out, then get the front edge back under the sickle, then pull the whole piece forward to get that bow in it, then put down the strip and bolts. It took the JD combine mechanic and I half a day and he had done it before and had all of the tight tools. Thank the Lord I'll be dead when it needs to be done again.
 
(quoted from post at 00:29:09 10/16/15) I just replaced all of the stainless on my 922 last year. It was a hand cutting, blue streak cussing, all day wasting good time. You want the header on for that as you can put it at the right height for you. It isn't a job for one person. Did I mention gloves?

I was losing beans because the edge at the sickle had worn enough that the rivets were busting off of the metal strip that stiffens them. The long strips back under the cross auger hold it down. Once you get those strips off (and don't lose a finger on that sharp flighting) take pictures with your cell phone or draw out how they overlap. Then you slide the stainless backwards and out from under the sickle.

Did anyone tell you that the new pieces come flat? That's when I knew I was toast. You have to blow everything out, then get the front edge back under the sickle, then pull the whole piece forward to get that bow in it, then put down the strip and bolts. It took the JD combine mechanic and I half a day and he had done it before and had all of the tight tools. Thank the Lord I'll be dead when it needs to be done again.

Not justair your JD mechanic DID NOT know how to replace the sheets!!!! You remove all the guards and then take the sickle back lose/off. Then you remove the back hold down strips. Then you remove the flex sheets. You put the new flex sheets in with them sticking at an up angle towards the front. You line all the sheets up straight and then tighten the back hold down strips tight. You then fold the front edge down and put the sickle back strip down over the front edge of the flex sheet to hold it down. I do them by myself by using large "C" clamps to hold the sickle back down as I work my way across.

I just did our F925 this fall and I did it in a morning by myself. Your mechanic did not know what he was doing.
 
Ugh. Just so you know, it wasn't a cheap venture at
$100 an hour. When I have to help the tech I should
get half the money!

Our combine guy used to be top notch. As he's
gotten older he's slower and slower at everything.
I'm not saying a word to Ken (owner). This guy is
still a wealth of information. It's just gotten easier to
call him and ask him about it instead of have him
come.
 

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