looking at an IH 1420

Like the title says, I'm looking at buying an IH 1420. To me, everything on the combine looks really nice. Its got 3300hours on it, owned by a JD mechanic and he took really good care of it. Just looking around at it, I see bearings that have been replaced, new grease zerks, all the belts look new or close to it. It looks like it never sat outside. The problem is, I know nothing about these rotary combines. What do I look at as far as the guts of the machine go?
 
Look over the main axle housing thats between the finals...They had a habit of breaking like mine both did....The way to stop that is pull a final off and reinforce it with tubing..The rear axle also broke on mine...I think that it came from a farm with lots of terraces and had metal fatique from all the flexing..
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thanx for the heads up. Do you have a bin extension on yours? Do you have any problems getting parts from the dealer?
 
The IH 1420 has a WEAK front axle. I think they where meant for 4 row only combining. Steeper side hills and six row headers wiped most of them out around here. Check with some IH guys. I think I heard that some of the parts on the IH 1420 are getting harder to get as well.
 
No bin extension and I used 4x30 corn head and 15 ft grain head....I last used mine in 2007 and new parts were getting a little scarce then....I parted it out but still have the D-358 engine from it if someone needs one..
 
We looked at 1420 and 1620 a while back and for the prices that were asked we got a bigger and less worked machine for about the same price. More parts are easer to get for the 40 and 60 models.Just my two cents.
 
(quoted from post at 10:32:13 09/08/15) Like the title says, I'm looking at buying an IH 1420. To me, everything on the combine looks really nice. Its got 3300hours on it, owned by a JD mechanic and he took really good care of it. Just looking around at it, I see bearings that have been replaced, new grease zerks, all the belts look new or close to it. It looks like it never sat outside. The problem is, I know nothing about these rotary combines. What do I look at as far as the guts of the machine go?

i was given this list to use when i was looking at a 1620. it will help on most axial flow combines.

Inspection checklist for Axial Combines

1. Put rotor gear box in neutral, open both sides of the rotor and roll the rotor over 360 degrees for balance.

2. Remove the 2 inspection panels on left side of the machine at ground level, inspect the rasp bars on the rotor.

3. Check concave sections (3) for damage.

4. Check the grates (3) under the back 1/2 of the rotor to make sure the are the "key stock" style.

5. Check the straight bars on the rear 1/2 of the rotor are not worn out.

6. Inside the rotor cage are vanes, 360 degrees around the inside, make sure they are not missing or laid flat.

7. The 3 augers under the concaves need to be check for wear, razor thin....

8. Check the top sieve condition; make sure it is not "trashed".

Removing the 2 left side panels just behind the left front drive tire can inspect all of the above.

9. Open the clean out door to the vertical auger, razor thin???

10. Inspect the 2 vertical auger drive gears at the same location. These are open gears & must be greased regularly or will show excessive wear.

11. At the front of the rotor, remove the inspection panel just the feeder house (10" x 24")

Check the impeller wear bars for wear, if worn to the point where the "elephant ears"/impeller bars show signs of wear, ALL the wear bars AND the elephant ears will have to be replaced. These are sold in matched sets for balance.

12. Up on top check the horizontal auger for wear.

13. Check the 90-degree auger pivot section is not broken out at the base where the grease tubes discharges.

14. Are the floor augers thin??

15. Check the top of the clean grain elevator for wear/breakage & sprockets for wear.

16. Open the access door to the rotor drive belt & variable speed pulley, climb down into the work area, check all belts. CAREFULLY inspect the housing weldments, sheet metal supports that are the rear support of the rotor itself. This is a weak area.

To do this face the grain tank/rear of the rotor with the variable speed pulley on your right side.

17. Don't move and reach down with your left hand for the small dipstick that is the rotor drive reservoir. It has a small capacity and leaks into the rotor chamber which you never see.

18. Check all normal items. Lights, clutch, brakes heater, air etc.

19. In the cab, on the left side, just under the window is a panel for access to all of the electrical controls, relays etc. mice??

20. The final drives need to be checked for "rolling torque" as part of the negotiations. There maybe some marks on the final drive to indicate the date of service, torque reading etc.

21. Check the front axle frame weldments where the frame is connected to the front axle.

hth

good luck!

Duane
 
thanx for all the replies folks, I went back and looked the combine over again thismorning. I guess I was a day late, it sold last night. Oh well, the dealer has a 1440 coming in a couple weeks that I will go look at. I doubt it will be as nice as the 1420 was but hopefully its decent enough.
 
1420 and 1620 have rotor assembly unique to them. A 1440--1640 and up share more common parts than do the smaller models, for what thats worth.

Ben
 

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