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M2 Injector Roosa pump - No fuel

W

Walt7777777

Member
Thanks to everyone that has been helping me on this.

I am still not getting any fuel to the injectors at the engine, thus it only fires on starting fluid.

I flushed both filters and then allowed the fuel to fill them up and until it came out of the vent on the 2nd filter, just beside the pump.

I then cracked the injectors on top of the engine and cranked the engine several times. No fuel.

As per advice, I opened the panel to the metering valve and everything seemed to be moving.

After closing this, I cranked some more and still do not have fuel.

Combine has been sitting in a pole barn for about 7-8 years, it will fire for a few seconds on a shot of starting fluid.

Is there anything else I can do?

How much is a rebuild?

Many thanks for your help.

Best,

Walt
 
I took off the hand primer pump assy and found that the bottom plunger came off and was cracked, so this is why it did not pump up tight, maybe the cracks in it also let air into the system. I'm going to go over to the dealer to see if they have replacement rubbers. Not sure why the electric pump would not provide fuel to the injector pump though, but will correct this and bleed everything again.

If anyone has any comments, would be glad to hear.

Thanks,

Walt
 
Hopefully the pump is turning inside. If so there's a good chance the rotor plungers are stuck from setting with stale fuel. I've seen the plungers stick in just 6 months especially with water in fuel or biodiesel. Just got in a D21 AC pump that has set for ten years, metering valve, delivery valve, plungers were all stuck..
 
I replaced the hand primer and it pumps up very tight. Bleed the system again and again, am not getting any fuel at the injectors.

Anyone else have any advice?

Guess at this point, I will need to remove the injector pump. Have been looking at the maintenance manual and it looks quite involved.

Do you really need all of those special tools they say to use?

Assume they make a rebuild kit for it, looks like mostly seals unless something broke?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Walt
 
If somehow water condensed in the tank and made it to the injection pump, it can/will break the pump drive shaft quicker than you can think about it. But, I don't recall you mentioning finding water in the trap or filter, so that is probably not your problem. Usually the electric pump is just good enough to provide the transfer pump with fuel. So, if you have found issues with your transfer pump, that for sure won't help. Careful with the ether, don't wreck your engine, I always thought AC engines were like Perkins and didn't handle ether well. Can take the timing window off and turn the engine by hand to see if the timing lines ever line up, if you keep turning the engine and only continue to see the one line (rear, I believe) that is more or less stationary, and never see the front timing line come around, the pump shaft is broken.

Ross

Ross
 
On model DM pumps the rotor can seize but the retainer drive in the timing window will still turn. On DB pumps the shaft breaks instead of the rotor. I'd still bet the plungers are stuck from setting. Just repaired a D21 pump for the same trouble, it has been setting ten years. Plungers, delivery and metering valves were all stuck. After a complete tear down and cleaning pump works fine.
 
Thanks for the comment, are all the special tools that they mention in the service manual needed to tear it down and put it back together?

Many thanks,

Walt
 
Diesetech,

I lined the timing damper at 20 BTDC and began removing the lines.

Gave it a good cleaning.

I am capping and bagging things as I go along.

I have the front most cover off and inspection nut, don't seem to see the timing mark they mentioned, so I am going to bar the engine around again in case @1 is not top.

I was able to get the connectors at the pump off except the two in the back. Not sure how this is done, manual just says to remove them and there is not enough room for a wrench.

Any help appreciated.

Many thanks,

Walt
 
baring it around again produced no marks on the timing gear. Guess I will need to take the valve cover off to be sure that I have it on the correct position 20 BTDC.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Walt
 
OK, I see the mark, barely. I also loosened the injector tube retaining brackets to get some play in the lines. Still can't get a wrench on the back two between the pump and engine. I assume I will need to remove the mounting screws to the pump and pull it out some to get them off. I have the gear off in front, but ran into a dead-end when I could not find my 12 pt. socket to remove the cap screws to release the pump. Have millions of sockets, but that one seemed to have disappeared. I will go out and buy one tomorrow.

Are there any other sockets required for the rest?

Guess I will have to order the special tools required to disassemble. Ordered a gasket set, so am hoping to just clean and free everything and put it back together. If it gets to be too much, I will sell it to the bone yard for parts.

Thanks for the help.

Walt
 
The pump timing marks under the two screw cover are what to look for and line up. Sometimes the front mark is hard to see if pump has rust inside. The two line fittings are best removed with open right angle wrench..
 
Thanks Dieseltech. Yes, I do have a set of those wrenches, will dig them out.

The A/C manual does a good job tearing this down with lots of pics. However, they are calling for the use of all kinds of special tools.

Hate to say this, but may be cheaper to take it to a shop for probably a one-time job.

Any way just loosen clean up everything without complete disassembly and put it back together? I have a lot of tools and rebuilt engines and etc. around the farm, but not sure I want to tackle this?

Thanks for any comments.

Walt
 
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