Gleaner K input shaft clutch R R

Can anyone send me a link to or a photo(s) of the pages from the shop manual detailing the removal and replacement of the ground drive clutch on the input shaft? I would like to know what I am getting into before I get started (shortcuts, etc.) Thanks!
 
just go to agcopartsbooks.com then click on guest and you can then select gleaner from the drop down menu and enter K for the model, you can then see the parts diagrams for the machine. The clutch replacement isn't too bad, it is easier to remove the pulleys and spring assembly off the shaft, then loosen (don't remove) the 4 bolts on the front of the tranny, that will lower it down enough to make removal easier, while you have that stuff off it is a good time to check or replace the bearings that's on the shaft and in the bell housing, when I did mine I went back with sealed bearings, ones from agco are not sealed and you have to remember to keep them greased. When you put everything back on, bolt the pressure plate on the flywheel before installing it, then lift it up and have someone to turn the shaft so the splines will line up, after you get things bolted back up then put the stuff on the shaft, it will make it lighter to do it that way. If you have anymore questions please let me know, I just did mine, not as bad of a job as I thought it would be.
 
Thanks for your reply and the tip on the parts diagram. I do have a parts book. My questions at this point are:
1. Did you have to remove the drive tire or at least loosen the lug nuts for clearance to do this?
2. Does the shaft slide out once you remove the input sheaves and spring assembly, or after you split open the clutch housing?<br)3. Is the clutch housing easier to split open after loosening the four bolts that you mentioned?

Thanks for your help.
 
Can't tell you on the tire. There were so many models/tire/rim sizes- and any and all of that comes into play.

The input shaft assembly is removed from the trans. with a ring of maybe 10 to 12 3/8" fine thread bolts up under the machine. Then the shaft can be pressed or driven out of the housing.
 
So step by step should be something like
1. Possibly remove or loosen drive tire if clearance is needed
2. Remove belt and sheaves
3. Loosen 4 bolts described in earlier post
4. Remove 10-12 bolts to separate clutch housing from tranny. At this point outer clutch housing, clutch assembly, and shaft will be free to remove
5. R and R clutch assembly and bearings then repeat above in reverse
 
Yeah you'll have to remove the tire, like bob said, once you remove the bolts all the way around the input shaft assembly will slide out, if you need to get the shaft out of the bell crank you will have to press the bearings out, there are several snap rings in there that has to be removed. If I were you I would go back with sealed bearings if yours need replacing. Check the bearing that is on the end of the hub and goes up in the spring assembly, also check the o-ring and washer that is in each end of the hub, good time to replace them too.
 
Thanks for your help guys. I just wanted to get a good handle on it to try and eliminate any surprises. No time for re-work or goof ups as a "part time" farmer.
 
I would run the variable speed up fast, which leaves the lower, spring loaded sheave open. Loosen, DON'T remove the castle nut on the end of the shaft. Strike the cast hub of the outer sheave with a BIG hammer. The spring pressure and the strike should pop the outer sheave loose from the tapered shaft. That is usually the biggest, neglected challenge. Then you can work at getting everything else apart.
 
Bob, do you recommend loosening the castle nut rather than initially removing it due to safety reasons or are you suggesting to leave the sheaves loosely on the shaft during removal of the whole assembly?
 
Safety. When the outer sheave half pops loose, it could be dangerous if not contained. Once loose, it all has to come off to disassemble the whole thing.
 
When I took mine apart, I'm pretty sure I used a puller to remove the outside pulley half, it is on a woodruff key. Also you might have to unbolt the inner pulley from the hub so it will clear the brake assembly.
 
I am going to have to use a puller as well. Tire is off and all other bolts are broken loose so I'm getting there. Trying to find a puller that will fit now.
 

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