Replacing the traction drive belt on a F2

What is the secret to replacing the traction drive belt (71318378) on an F2? There is little clearance between the spring - loaded sheave and the bolt heads on the brake housing. I really don't want to have to mess with the heavy spring in that sheave.
Mark
legumeseed.us
 
Yea.

If the old belt is still on, run it in so the bottom pulley is as
expanded as can be. A couple of crow bars and wood wedges
or blocks to get it open all the way from there. And they are
slippery so things can fly, be real careful.

On mine if you turned the belt flat you could work it past the
shaft end and is it the brake, just so.

This is from memory, been a few years now. But I recall doing
plenty of them on the first F.

Paul
 
The secret is a bit of grinding.....take out the bolt that is in the way. Grind the boss off the casting that the bolt fits in to. Grind til the surface is flush with the rest of the casting. The belt will slip between the bolt head and the sheave......don"t have to take the sheave apart. Grinding will have no effect on the strength of the final drive.
 
Yeah, that belt won't come out unless the bolt at the bottom of
the steering brake housing is out and/or the outer half of the
sheave is levered in somewhat.

JMS's method sounds like a good one, but you have to get the
bolt out first. Cutting is an option.

Proceeding the recommended way isn't hard, just make sure you
leave that nut on when loosening up the hub! If the hub is being
a PITA, try shimming the outer half of the sheave away from the
hub (toward the combine) with the nut in place. Then you can
remove the bolt in the brake housing and slip the belt by with no
grinding. It will take a little levering as Paul suggested, but it
works pretty well.
 
IIRC, I did take the sheave apart the first time, in order to grind off the boss. Long time ago, but easy changes since then. Multiple times, but not as often as paul has. For some reason, that belt does not stand up for me. I think the original solid belt was better, not the ribbed ones which don"t last. I don"t see a problem with the sheaves, must be something else.
 
My parts orderer was finding non-ribbed belts that stood up better, those ribbed ones from Agco were aweful.

Paul
 
Take a 2/4 about 12 inchs long , sharpen both sides of 1
end of broad to 3/4 of a inch .And drive it into
bottom pulley to help spread pulley . when it hits
bottom you than take top pulley apart and that
will help you get belt off.Same going back on.
 
Check with a couple Belt & Bearing Supply houses and see if they can match that belt with an Industrial Belt that will last a lot longer.
 
Agree with Paul. It's tight but the belt turned sideways will fit by
that bolt. Might need help but will go. I've changed mine twice
and it worked both times for me.
 
(quoted from post at 19:23:41 11/25/14) Agree with Paul. It's tight but the belt turned sideways will fit by
that bolt. Might need help but will go. I've changed mine twice
and it worked both times for me.
Take the 6 bolts off the face of the pulley, pry the clutch pulley in (both sides are spring loaded) and the belt will slip in between the pulley and the left wheel differential.

Or - when you pry in the pulleys just take the lower bolt off - if you line it up with a ballancing slot you will have just enough clearance to take the bolt out. Easier if you have a helper with you. I have changed several of these belts off different machines. Just finished one last week , in fact. Major pain to change when in the field -at night!

I agree that the slotted belts are sorry -make sure to keep the drive belt properly adjusted and it wil last a little longer.
 

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