Gleaner F2 trans

Anyone ever have to deal with the trans clutch on a F2? Does the tire and final drive have to come off?

I don't know that the tire has to come off, but it makes it a lot easier to get in there and work. Final drive does not have to come off- but the variable speed pulley needs to be disassembled piece by piece to get around the brake- that's why the sheave halves are bolted to the hubs. First- run up the variable speed- to put pressure on the sheaves- loosen big nut on input shaft, and pound hub with big hammer. It's a tapered shaft, and can be a bugger. Once the outer hub pops loose, then you can unbolt sheaves, and remove everything piece by piece. Then you are finally ready to remove the input housing to get at the clutch!

Much easier to remove wheel, set a stump under the hub, and have at it. You don't 'have' to, but will save a whole lot of time and knuckles.

Take apart pulley as mentioned.

Take bolts out around the housing. Remember, last bolt comes out and you will be laying under a pretty heavy piece that wants to drop on you. Be ready.

Then - it won't come out. By about a 1/2 inch, it doesn't fit through the frame opening.

I hear you need to loosen some bolts on the frame and pry apart a bit. My F came with a tiny torch cut on the rear side of the frame, so the clutch input housing/half would slip right out.

Mine had some issue, the bearings on that shaft would go out every 18 months.

I got good at the process.

Paul

Yea that's my actual problem. The shaft bearings are out. I went to my backup machine, an A2, but I'm going to need this for corn when the time comes. No corn head for the A2

What the others said. Dealt with that on the Model F- wheel left on but frame bolts need to be loosened and jack up frame a bit- no amount of prying and wiggling will get it out otherwise. Local dealer had to call AC to find that out.

While you"re in there- notice you can not slip the VS belt over the sheave (if left assembled) cuz you hit a bolt head on the final drive. Unscrew that bolt, GRIND off the boss around the head, flush with the housing (it"s about a quarter-inch thick). Replace the bolt. Next time you replace the belt, it will slip between the VS sheave and the housing, eliminating the need to disassemble the VS.

Mine would actually fail once a year; dad had a welding shop turn out the surfaces of that housing (shop had a lathe they could clamp the whole cast piece in and mill the bearing landings bigger!) and we put in Timpkin bearings instead of the ball bearings. They lasted longer, year and a half to 2 years.

We got good at it, had a stump its still in the shed the right height for the wheel, jack it up with a bottle jack, roll tire up to lean on header, put stump under hub, take pulley apart, go under with the 9/16 wrench and drop is it 9 bolts around it, lightly wiggle and roll it out into my lap, cock it just right to fit out the torched out frame area (what engineer messed that deal up? Sheez.) and dad would take it, set on some sturdy saw horses, whack the shaft and replace the bearings, back together, I'd twist it up under and bolts back in, pulley together, and wheel back on.

About an hour and a half, with enough practice.

Dealer said they never heard of that problem.

Ha.

Dealers always say that. Bearings too close together, too much strain on that shaft. Tho, mine had something extra wrong with it, something not lined up right or something, mine was an extreme machine.....

Ran that F from 1980 to 1999 I believe.

Paul