Figured out why slip clutch on clean grain auger slipped - needed a spacer between the flat washer and the backside of the clutch. There was a gap that caused the clutch teeth to barely engage. Easy fix. Best news - she's a corn picking fool. Managed to dial in the spike tooth cylinder to clean the cobs w/barely any cracking. Some cobs had a few kernels left, but very few, and cobs were mostly whole. No complaints at the elevator. Started a 13 acre field at 1 p.m., filled my wagons, then ran each remaining hopper to the house to put in bin. Had gravity wagon sitting over auger so I could dump in it and run it in the bin. Got done just after 6. Dad took pity on me after the first few hoppers and came out of retirement and emptied the wagon after I dumped each time. Thanks for all the good advice. Supposed to rain here Thur., so hoping to work on bean head then.
 
Haven't had that problem with the M3, but on my F2/ F3 the clean grain sprocket slip clutch assembly was held on with a roll pin on the back side. Several times that roll pin broke, the sprocket would slip inward, and would jam on the parts of broken roll pin, and so would slip easily and the sprocket wasn't quite lined up but it worked well enough to not easily see the problem.

I would assume they beefed that situation up on an M2, but while it looked like I'd need a spacer as you say, it was a busted up pin under the slightly shifted sprocket that was the real problem. A spacer woulda caused side-thrust problems.

I need to go look at my M3, but its raining and bleak out right now.....

Paul
 
You got me wondering if I missed something. I'll look at mine today and double check.

How long have you had your M3? As much as I'm liking my 2, I've thought about trading up to a 3 in a few years.
 
A year and 3 days.

It made it through the horrid microburst wrecked crop I had last year, so I like it.

I've had an F, F2, and F3 hydro and now the M3, starting in 1980. So I'm kinda familiar with the series.

Paul
 

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