pea_grower
Member
Any secrets to removing the header on a Versatile 400 swather? Need to remove the head for easier transport over 100 miles.
- Thread starter pea_grower
- Start date
IMHO, you will be ANGRY by the time you take it off and get it back on!
I was going to do that several years ago, and talked myself out of it!
That being said, I have R+R'd the heads from a number of other swathers over the years, and, IMHO, the basic procedure is to lower and safely block up the head, and then release the tension on the lift asst springs before attempting to disconnect it.
YAMMV!
I was going to do that several years ago, and talked myself out of it!
That being said, I have R+R'd the heads from a number of other swathers over the years, and, IMHO, the basic procedure is to lower and safely block up the head, and then release the tension on the lift asst springs before attempting to disconnect it.
YAMMV!
pea_grower
Member
Where do you find draper canvas. I think what came with this swather is the original.
I put together many of them in the 70s...
0. Take a couple of pictures of each of the following locations before starting. This may help since there are multiple positions for some things. If you get stuck, I've still got the assembly instructions. Bring some rag pieces so you can put them into hose ends / fittings.
A couple of hi-lift jacks and blocks or a good "cherry-picker", that is a must because you'll have to hold up the back of the header. (BE CAREFUL !) I'll assume you've got that because you'll have to lift this onto a trailer. Put the header all the way down. You may have to block a little under the cutter bar to get some weight off. Put the reel all the way down too. Ideally, you'll have supports/jacks on all 4 corners of the header before you start.
1. Mark the amount of exposed threads and position of the flotation springs (so you can replace in the same position/tension) and unscrew them.
2. Block/Lift the back of the header on the main pipe. We always used barrels, but since yours is assembled, you may have to be a little creative.
3. If the the long tubular shield (the one with the ujoints that connects under the operator platform to the header) is on, you'll have to remove that too.
4. Remove the front pins of the header lift cylinders.
5. Remove the 8 bolts (4 on each side) that clamp the lift arms to the main header tube.
6. Remove the header lift hose (I think there was only one connection).
6. At this point, you should be able to back the swather away from the header. (The main drive will separate.) Tie up the lift cylinders up so they don't drag.
7. I'll assume it's not the 20' double-swath version which is the same up to this point. But if it is, you'll have more hoses to disconnect. The control unit always had the hoses connected to the valves so you'll want to disconnect the hoses at the opposite end. Make sure you mark them all before disconnecting so you can get them hooked up correctly again.
Reattaching is pretty much the reverse.
I hope this helps.
0. Take a couple of pictures of each of the following locations before starting. This may help since there are multiple positions for some things. If you get stuck, I've still got the assembly instructions. Bring some rag pieces so you can put them into hose ends / fittings.
A couple of hi-lift jacks and blocks or a good "cherry-picker", that is a must because you'll have to hold up the back of the header. (BE CAREFUL !) I'll assume you've got that because you'll have to lift this onto a trailer. Put the header all the way down. You may have to block a little under the cutter bar to get some weight off. Put the reel all the way down too. Ideally, you'll have supports/jacks on all 4 corners of the header before you start.
1. Mark the amount of exposed threads and position of the flotation springs (so you can replace in the same position/tension) and unscrew them.
2. Block/Lift the back of the header on the main pipe. We always used barrels, but since yours is assembled, you may have to be a little creative.
3. If the the long tubular shield (the one with the ujoints that connects under the operator platform to the header) is on, you'll have to remove that too.
4. Remove the front pins of the header lift cylinders.
5. Remove the 8 bolts (4 on each side) that clamp the lift arms to the main header tube.
6. Remove the header lift hose (I think there was only one connection).
6. At this point, you should be able to back the swather away from the header. (The main drive will separate.) Tie up the lift cylinders up so they don't drag.
7. I'll assume it's not the 20' double-swath version which is the same up to this point. But if it is, you'll have more hoses to disconnect. The control unit always had the hoses connected to the valves so you'll want to disconnect the hoses at the opposite end. Make sure you mark them all before disconnecting so you can get them hooked up correctly again.
Reattaching is pretty much the reverse.
I hope this helps.
pea_grower
Member
Thanks for the detail IHC. I've printed and will take with me.
One question about "that is a must because you'll have to hold up the back of the header". I'm assuming that it will set on the trailer floor (floor would be the line on the pic) on the supports. Is the back so heavy that it will try to flip backwards?
One question about "that is a must because you'll have to hold up the back of the header". I'm assuming that it will set on the trailer floor (floor would be the line on the pic) on the supports. Is the back so heavy that it will try to flip backwards?
pea_grower
Member
Got the head off of the swather yesterday. Wasn't so bad since you guys had warned me. Started building a low combine header trailer and still had supports flat, and was just able to set it on there without much blocking. Thanks for the instructions IHC.
Might be a good idea to replace canvas roller bearings before I put canvas on? Lots of rust.
Might be a good idea to replace canvas roller bearings before I put canvas on? Lots of rust.
pea_grower
Member
It is a 15 ft head. Hope I can put a pickup reel off of a 15 ft gleaner header on it. Guess it's a H-C reel.
I think the reel support arms have a little adjustment in-or-out, so that may help.
I'm not sure how the reel mounts on the Gleaner, but if you've got the hardware which bolted it to the Gleaner arms, it should work out O.K. with some modifications.
Hopefully it will fit between the dividers on the swather.
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