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Lacing belts, instruction question?

C

Charles Krammin

Member
On this instructions for preparing a flat belt for lacing (inst #1), states for baler belt, to "remove 3/4" chevron". Is this applicable for all belts? Mine is a 4 ply, 1/4" width for power drive applications. Won't it be a stonger lace, if I left all 4 plys, or does that cause slipping or faster wear on hooks? 10"pulleys.
Also is direction of travel of belt for baler belts and one side trimming and maybe power belts, non directional, and therfor trimming on each side?
Using a "clipper R-7 Vise clamp" and about #4 hooks.
Charles Krammin SW MI
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I would leave all four plys.

They say to remove 3/4 on old belt to get rid of the old spot the hooks into.

You have to also cut a small taper on the edge of the belt (as shown in illustration) on the trailing edge so belt doe not catch on something during use.

Then they say to just remove the ribs with a grinder so they don't interfere with the installation of the hooks.

I don't see anything about removing plys.

I spliced many belts and did just how I said. They all worked fine.

Gary
 
Instructions answer my own question "removing chevron".
"Chevron belt are directional in usage".
"no chevron belts can be used in either direction".
"A chevron belt, has a definite rib design and a non chevron belt is smooth.

PS: saw a beautiful lateral tear patch. "Thin belt on exterior of belt, fastened by flat headed rivets" Now have to search for "flat head rivets, with washer, and peaning closed". They use the same rivets on fastening the wood slats to the links on the apron chains. Suggested ideas solicited.
Charles Krammin SW MI
 
McMaster Carr sells them. Try "Wide-Countersunk Head Solid Rivets with Bearing Washer" for an example that's probably pretty close to what you want. Peening (two "e"s) is a useful skill - mostly about patience, and a good anvil (8 or 16 lb sledge makes a portable anvil when you have to bring the tools to the work, rather than vice versa) - use perhaps a 1 lb ball-peen or cross-peen hammer. The washer-type rivets are nice to work with, as you get a good wide closure without needing massive skill in the peening. The major trick is many little taps, not big walloping blows. You want to move metal, not drive a nail.

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