Gleaner F3

Dave H (MI) · Feb 25, 2014

Looking for a little advice. I have several tractors but never owned a combine. A Gleaner F3 is available locally and I have a need in the next year, and more so the following year, for a good older combine. This one is close enough to drive home, so no freight charge getting it across state. Tires are good except the right rear which is pretty bad but holding air. Cylinder on rear axle is dripping what looks like power steering fluid. Machine runs and has some pretty fresh looking corn in the works so I think it was used recently. Little mousey in the cab...OK, really mousey in the cab...droppings and smell. Less than 2800 hours. Anything I should look at that might be a problem area on these machines? It isn't REAL ugly but there are a few cosmetic issues. Any idea of value? Issues to look for? Has a grain head also that looked pretty clean. Any help or suggestions very much appreciated. Thanks!

Josh in Pa · Feb 26, 2014

I really wanted an F3, but couldn't find one locally and they sell really well, ended up with a new Holland TR85. All combines have a lot of electronics in the cab, and mice like wires. I'd make sure all the tattle tale monitors work, lights, and other electric controls. I am not sure about hours on a Gleaner, it seemed that they consistently had less hours than other brands. Did the hour meters break, or did smaller farmers buy Gleaners? Check bottom of all augers and elevators for thing metal, augers for sharp edges. Sprockets for wear.
Josh

Dave H (MI) · Feb 26, 2014

Are there any difficult to reach bearings, etc that are likely to be a problem? Location and cost tend to put me in the position of mechanic on this stuff. Given a choice, I would prefer not to spend all summer getting it ready for fall.

Too many projects already.

Josh in Pa · Feb 26, 2014

I don't know much about them, because I ended up not buying one. One of the main reasons I wanted one was that they had a reputation of being simple and easy to work on. That said, every combine has bearings go out. Before the season I like to check every bearing on the machine visually and with a pry bar. It will prevent a lot of downtime.
Josh

Bob Bancroft · Feb 26, 2014

The one moving assembly that's buried that comes to mind is the raddle chain. When I bought my F2 I didn't notice that the raddle chain had been patched, and, some idiot put a heavier spring on the slip clutch, effectively locking it up.

Guess what happened?

I would pull off the lower cover, unhook the drive chain, and turn the whole assembly, and, to specifically answer your question- then you could check the idler bearings there at the lower end.

One item that seems to get hammered is the feeder beater. But, you really need to check over the machine from one end to the other anyhow.

jm42 · Feb 26, 2014

these are really great machines, is it a hydro. open up the rock trap and inspect the cylinder bars and the concave channels on the doors, make sure the door is not beat up from rocks. chains and belts augers should be inspected but easily replaceable. check the belt tenstioner on the main drive belt from the engine, these usually are missing or unhooked, it is a rod bent with a rubber shock obsorber on it. I owned one for 5 years and replaced a water pump and the belt tensioner, and only one bearing. ran two hundred acres year. it did a great job. beofre I sold it I replaced all chains, belts and augers and sold it for 17500. paid 13500, they hold the value if taken care of.

Dave H (MI) · Feb 26, 2014

Honestly don't know if it is a hydro. I went to look at it but, well, didn't know to ask. Never even occurred to me to look into gas vs diesel. Sounds dumb maybe, but it was the first time I looked at one and I am still a little green.

I'll have to get back and have them shut it off so I can look at it a little closer. I can find the main belt and I think most of the chains, belts, etc were easily visible but where might this rock trap be?

Dave H (MI) · Feb 26, 2014

What I could really use is someone in my area who knows a little about them to give it a look over...but I will have to do my best.

jm42 · Feb 26, 2014

Not sure I have ever seen a gas f3, but they did offer hydro or manual. easy to tell them apart.
What really set the f3 apart from the others was that you could have a hydro in a 4 row machine, at the time most 4row machines were gear drive. also the automatic header height control is a huge thing to have with this combine.

Bob Bancroft · Feb 26, 2014

I agree. Keep talking around. There has to be someone. Don't give up.

JMS/.MN · Feb 26, 2014

It"s not a rock trap- it"s a rock door....under the cylinder. It pops open when a rock enters, before it can damage the cylinder. Should be a handle hanging on the left side of the machine- have the owner show you how to use it to open the door, and close it. (Never close the door with the handle over your middle, unless you want to change choirs! Have the handle alongside of you)

That handle is also used to lock/unlock the latches when switching headers. Always lock the thresher housing UP before crawling underneath!

Most bearings are easily accessible, but make sure to lube the main pivot shaft bearings- where the thresher housing pivots. Replacing that is major surgery, but I haven"t had to on 4 machines in 38 years.

Dave H (MI) · Feb 26, 2014

Just about now I am kicking myself for not scaring up a manual. Would REALLY help a lot. Putting together a list of these points so that when I go back I can talk to the guy...maybe get him to believe I know what I am doing. One thing for sure, if this goes the usual way I will know it inside and out before harvest. Just a fact of life, you buy 30 year old machinery you are going to have to fix something. Top of the list? Watch the handle on that rock door! (IN CAPITALS!)

jm42 · Feb 26, 2014

hope this works out for you, you will realy like this machine, very simple to work on and parts should be available from dealer or aftermarket. I have seen these machines sell for as little as 8k that needed work and one sold last year in ohio for 45k it only had 450 hrs on it. Also look up the clean grain elevator, there is a wooden divider, if they ran the chain to loose this will show a lot of wear, can be replaced though.

JMS/.MN · Feb 26, 2014

Owner should have the Operator manual. It has a good pre-delivery checklist- follow that for pre-season as well. No matter how many times you read it, you"ll learn more the next time. OP manual is spendy- find out first if he has one. They came with the machine......usually parts book as well.

jm42 · Feb 26, 2014

attached is a picture of the f3 I had 5 years ago, realy miss that combine.
This was a 1983 model, the first year they came out with the f3, it had the 4cyl diesle with hydro.

Five points John · Feb 26, 2014

When we farmed we had gleaners (40 years) Mostly K's and F's. They are very easy to work on. And any used combine, sooner or later you will work on. Their isn't a lot of stuff to take off to get to the trouble. I always liked the rock door and side access doors on the side When you plug up the cylinder or straw walkers you can just open the door and pull the weeds out. The other brands were nothing short of a night mare to unplug, if I remember right. Check the tailings return housing for where and all the auger housings that the augers run in. If they sit out side much they will rust through. I Have owners manuals And parts catalogs for sale for a F2 if anyone needs them. John

paul · Feb 26, 2014

'Handle' that Jim refers to is a pry bar hanging on a holder on the clean grain elevator.

A little loop on it goes over the short stub on the rock door under the throat of the combine. Always lock the header/throat up before crawling under there.

And yes, follow Jim's warning. Ask how we all know......

Paul

JMS/.MN · Feb 27, 2014

re what 5 points says about unplugging the cyl- yes, open the rock door, take out two bolts and open the rear half of the door, where the concaves are....and you can usually power up and clear the slug.

Dave H (MI) · Feb 27, 2014

Well, I DO appreciate all the input! I will let you know if I buy it and, if no, why not. I think this is a model I would like to work with. Sounds like I might must be able to keep her running well enough with what experience I have and a little help. If I don't buy this one, I'll have to pick one up soon somewhere else. Thanks again!

Tim(nj) · Feb 27, 2014

There were no gas F3s. That option ended during F2 production. If it has (or had) a straw chopper on the back, check over the separator hood above the walkers for missing rivets, cracks in the metal, etc. which can be caused by the chopper being run with a bad bearing or out-of-balance flails.

Gleaner F3

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

New User

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads