Case 1665 engine update

dbock

Member
Well I have the engine on my 1665 torn apart. I measured the bore and it is 0.004" over at the widest point just below the ridge. I'm thinking I will just take the ridge out with a ridge reamer and hone the cylinders and install std.rings. I realize it would be best to have it bored, but I'm on a budget and won't use the combine that often. This is the first motor I have done by my self that didn't have replaceable sleeves,so if you have any suggestions let me know.
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One of mine dropped a valve one year in corn harvest and put a egg size hole in one piston. In a hurry, I cleaned up the bore and put in a used piston and all new valves and still running several years later.
 
I myself would not bore it with that little amount of wear like you said hone new rings and I would do a full set of bearings and I would install hardened seat in the heads and new valves and guides if they are worn bad, was it burning oil or low on power or maybe both? is your hour meter still working and how many hours is on yours? just wondering as my main 1660 has all the repairs wrote in the ops manual by the original owner and he went thru the heads at 2162 hrs it now has a little over 3000 and runs great and uses very little oil maybe a 1/2 quart a week sorry for the long post and all the questions just wondering thanks for the update
cnt
 
It was burning oil pretty badly. The hour meter still works and it shows 3026 hrs. Do you think I should get std rings and hope the gap isn't to much or get 0.01 over and regap them?
 
I would think std ones would work, I do not have a SM that gives those specs but I would think that small amount of wear std would be fine
 
are parts for these engine hard to come by? I also have one these engines from an oliver combine is burnting oil big time.
 
Sounds like a good plan. .004 is not much at all.

I usually just hone the ridge out. Kinda hard on the hone, but I don"t have a reamer.

Did the rings get stuck in their grooves, or did they wear out? Sounds like they were stuck, with that little amount of wear. Seen that happen before.

Best of luck!
 
I have always had real good luck with a "Bead" type hone in your situation v/s the expander type.After you cut the ridge,the bead hone seems to do a lot better on a cylinder that is not going to be bored because it has a lot more give than a rigid.It seems to get minor imperfections in a slightly out of round cylinder a little better.I have always used a mix of half hydraulic oil and half diesel for honing fluid.I worked in a enging machine shop for years and even the store bought honing fluid didnt work as good as the half and half.A good bead hone will run you a little over a $100 but is money well spent in my opinion.
 
We had all the tools to do that job on the farm; they probably haven't been used in 40-some years.
 
Another option available for you is to get file fit rings. Popular in high performance applications. You file each ring end individually which will seal a worn bore well for many years.
 
The military used those 318 engines in a lot of vehicles. The M113 had that engine until they switched to diesel in about all vehicles and they used a Detroit V6 diesel in the M113 APC. We tested all of them. Hal
 

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