Vertical auger / unload elbow on 1420 combine

IHMANKY

Member
Is the upright and elbow on the unload the same size on a 1420 as it is a 1440? I need to replace the upright and swivel / elbow for the unload during the offseason and figured I'd be money ahead if I got one from a salvage yard in good shape, but the few yards in a decent drive have the one or two 1420's stripped to the guts.
 
Unless you find a used one that was recently replaced it may be wore out as well.

There are somethings that are fine to buy at a salvage yard but some items like tin work may be about wore out as well.

The elbow is one of those items I would hesitate to buy used.

Inspect it well before buying used.

Gary
 
For what's worth, I tried a set from sloan's for my 2188. It was looser than what I had. I had good luck with everything from them except that. I just changed the wear bar on the back of mine, it tightened up a lot and i kept running it.
 
Wear is not my big issue, mine *may* be twisted somewhere due to *maybe* pulling in the shed with the auger out one day when it was raining. Made several adjustments but still can't get it to swing out far enough to see it out the window, have to lean way forward and look way back. Also, stress cracked the tab the swing cylinder mounts on, I was at work when Dad noticed the crack, instead of waiting he called the local service truck based mechanic who proceeded to weld it up. Along with both the upper and lower flange. Took me an hour with a torch to get it free where it would turn and then I had to build it back up enough to remount what little tab I have. Made it through 400 acres though. Have to replace before next season, and pretty sure the lower tube is twisted some. Can you get a new elbow without gears or is that the way it comes?
 
make sure the rivets around the bottom inside of the elbow are good. the elbows are all the same from a 1420 to a 2388.
 
You're gonna have to replace everything that might be twisted or bent to get the auger working right and running smooth again. If the lower auger is twisted just a tweek the flighting won't be centered and the top bevel gears won't line up quite right and the auger won't swing right.BTDT! How is the vertical tube and flighting? You can get a couple thousand wrapped up in an unload auger so fast it'll make your head spin. The auger is the most fragile part of those machines. Jim
 
Its too bad that you dont live closer..I still have lots of my 1981 model 1420 left..All thats gone is the drive tires,hydro,one lift cylinder,and the rotary screen..If I cant sell any parts from it this year its all going for scrap..

I still have a good D-358 engine,radiator,transmission,both finals,rear axle,most of the main belts were new,new pto shaft down right side,etc..
 
I put A&I elbow, vertical and horizontal augers, vertical tube and inner horizontal tube on our new to us 1660 before we ran it fall before last. The only issue I had was the bolt holes not quite lining up on the brace of the verticle tube and a few holes on the horizontal tube. I have had pretty good luck with the aftermarket parts from Sloan Express and Shoup. In some cases the parts last better than OEM, I have especially found this to be the case with blades and bearings for our White planter. The one thing to watch for on the elbow is as long as it's greased properly and the truss rod is properly adjusted I doubt that you will wear out the pivot before the elbow gets thin from grain wear unless you only harvest low yielding crops (no corn). The one I took off the 1660 was so thin it had rippled on the back side from the auger being left out. We had changed the elbow on the old 1460 one time as it had worn through the weld in the corner of the elbow and was leaking. While it's all apart I would scatter the gearbox, replace the bearings at least and go through the bottom gear set as well. New bearings on the bottom could save you from the bearing going out on the bottom of the vertical auger and breaking that casting while stripping the gears... Don't ask me why I know that.
 

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