john deere 4400 combine

pulling kid

New User
i have a 4400 diesel combine that will shut off randomly ive changed the fuel filter, settlement bowl, checked the lift pump, and all of the obvious could it be electrical. it will always start back up again not knowing how long it will run.
 
Same thing here today, I was going to make a post, but seen yours.
I changed the fuel filter
cleaned the sediment bowl and screen.

It will run at idle, but when I rev it up it will run out of fuel. Purrs like a kitten when idling though.
I bought a new fuel pump that goes on the engine and when we were installing it stripped out one of the fittings a little so I couldn't see if that was the problem tonight.
The elec pump is working fine, but probably can't do it all, so the mechanical one if bad may cause this issue.
I even unhooked the electrical line from the ignition to see if that was the problem but no love there either.

If the mechanical pump fixes the issue I will post back, but I have to work my other job tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow night I will have an answer to that one.
 
Roosa Master on mine.

Yesterday, my combine was losing power so I cleaned the screen on the bowl and decided to quit and get a new filter today.
It got much worse today, it would actually just up and die. I am lucky I was in a field by the farm so I could limp it back home at idle to work on it. If I rev it up it would die in 20 seconds.
 
My Massey 550 combine did that a few years ago. Cleaned the sediment bulb screen, new fuel filters, even bought a new mechanical fuel pump. Problem was a wad of soybean chaff had gotten past the screen in the sediment bulb and was floating up and down the fuel line. It would float up in the stream of fuel and plug the check valve and stop the flow of fuel. Wait a while after the soybean chaff floated down away from the check valve and it would start again only to eventually float back up and starve the engine again. It was a nightmare figuring the problem out. Take things apart and blow compressed air backwards through the fuel lines. Good luck.
 
Tim(NJ) is on it. Governor weight retainer ring in the injection pump going bad. Mine did that about 10 years ago. If the ring has never been replaced, it is wAAAAAy past due. Many posts in the archives about how to check out this problem.
 
(quoted from post at 07:08:31 09/26/12) Tim(NJ) is on it. Governor weight retainer ring in the injection pump going bad. Mine did that about 10 years ago. If the ring has never been replaced, it is wAAAAAy past due. Many posts in the archives about how to check out this problem.

Darn, that sounds more expensive than the machine is worth. I will clean it out and see if it will finish this field and probably sell the machine as is.
I need a bigger unit for next year anyway.
 

I did unscrew the elec to the pump and it wouldn't start until I touched the wire back to the pump. Started right up then.

UPDATE: I took the check valve off the pump and let it run a gallon or so through the pump to flush out the crap. Then I assembled the return line without the check valve to send the crap to the tank and let the sediment screen and filter deal with it.

I have 50 acres of beans left and just want to be done with this machine for now. What problems can I expect by doing this?
 
The dampener ring is already falling apart and plugging your injection pump. With the check valve out the pieces will return to the tank for a awhile. It still may get plugged up enough to quit running. The internal passages plug and they will quit pumping.

Also it will more than likely drain off over night. You may have to bleed the pump before each use. That is what the check valve keeps from happening.

The kit to repair it is under $50. You have to have some knowledge on how to completely dis-assemble the injection pump. Then clean it all out and reassemble it. I also usually replace the old style governor cage. The old style has the rubber ring that hooks over two rows of rivets. That ring is what is falling apart. The solid steel governor cage does not have that rubber ring. I have been doing that for 25 plus years and never had an issue with the new steel cage.

If you look on line there are getting to be cheaper places to exchange injection pumps on line.

The local repair shops make them perfect again and that costs you $700-800. I have seen the exchange guys in the $350-450 range. I would repair the one you have or exchange one that has been rebuilt. Getting another used pump might just do the same thing in a short while.
 
thanks to jd seller i removed the check valve and hooked it up without it it starts and runs fine, tomorrow i will combine i think it will work. Do i need to fix something?
 
JD 4400 329 diesel with Roosa Master pump has an elbow fitting made of brass coming off the pump for the RETURN line to the tank
Symptom: engine ran good for a while then ran weak and died, would not run full throttle

Reason....pressure inside the pump builds up and a check ball is INSIDE this FITTING. Crap clogs up this check valve ball/spring, (crap might be from pump deterioration of internal plastic parts)
To remedy: take the elbow off and use compressed air to blow the crud out, reassemble and try it again.
This info came from a JD tech and it worked for us... Fingers crossed that this will help somebody out there
 

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