F2 to harvest peas after frost

pea_grower · Jul 24, 2012

Just thinking in advance, which is hard on me. Haven't used the F2 to harvest cowpeas before. I need a slow cylinder speed, but i don't want to have to go to the chain drive. Hope that near 400 rpm with the 20 sheave is slow enough. Don't want to be too aggressive either, don't want splits.

Was looking thru the parts book and it mentioned part number 71142277, a rasp concave. Wondered just what that was and if it would be less aggressive than the channel concaves. If you pull several of the channel concaves out, what do you plug the holes with, the 3/8 X 1 bolt?

JMS/.MN · Jul 24, 2012

Without looking at the book, can"t tell you bout the concave, but yes, when you remove concave bars you put the bolts back in to plug the holes. ALWAYS leave the door bar in place to maintain rock protection! Beyond that, maybe you need only one bar? Also, concave bars can be angle (one contact surface), or channel. BTW- AC is proprietary..height dimension slightly different than standard steel sizes...all are common mild steel.....you can make your own bars with angle or channel...dimension is a bit different but doesn"t matter as long as all those you put in are identical dimensions. Use an old one to get bolt locations. 20 bux for factory, few bux for common.

gbs · Jul 25, 2012

should harvest about like soybeans,reason i said that a farm we use to tend had a lot of volunteer peas that would come up with the beans as long as the vines were dry they cut and shelled just as good as the beans ,we would have to run them through the seed cleaner there were so many mixed in with the beans, best i can remember they didn't get damaged bad at all.

Averyman · Jul 25, 2012

Rasp bars for the concave are similar in design of the cylinder bars. If I remember correctly there were 3 pieces to make up one bar for the "G" and they were EXPENSIVE. We made our own "U" channel bars out of common stock and they worked well. For peas we used two or three concave bars and a half round bar at the rear to retard the flow and help keep the grain from flying up on the walkers.As mentioned it is important to have a bar on the door. We used the rasp bar concave for hard to thresh wheat and flax.

pea_grower · Jul 26, 2012

Thanks for the replys.

JMS - I was wondering if I might only need one bar. These cowpeas have about 15 seed in a pod and just hand threshing, when good and dry, I only need to pop a pod on the end and it seems to open end to end and twists. I might try one at the back like is mentioned just to slow the flow, but I might use the half round rasp, just because it seems to me that it might be easier to get the fragile cowpea seed over it, as opposed to the the flat "perpendicular" side of the regular concave bar that they would hit.

gbs and Averyman - Are those cowpeas or another type of peas? Since we are not good at putting our location on our profiles, I can't tell if you are in a part of the country for cowpeas. And the 3-piece rasp concave makes sense now, because the parts book says there are 15 pieces.

Averyman · Jul 26, 2012

I'm talking about field peas in Manitoba, don't know anything about cowpeas, but if there are fifteen peas in a pod they are different. If they shell that easy perhaps you only need two or three half round bars in the concave. They should be listed in your parts book, they were available for the G's, we used some in canola.

JMS/.MN · Jul 27, 2012

I"ve never done anything with fewer than three bars. But, stay with the one on the door so you have rock protection- hallmark of the Gleaner line that NO other brand has. (rocktrap=BS) If you have one on the concave, you can always lower the concave and drop the speed. (speed =first choice- speed makes feed)

gbs · Jul 27, 2012

when we first bought our F3 previous owner had used it to cut soybeans and said it was set up for beans, right out the gate we were splitting to many beans so we borrowed a 20 inch pulley from a neighbor slowed it down to 400 to 450 rpm on the cylinder that helped but it was still splitting to many,went ahead and finished up the beans running like it was,went back to the neighbor to return his pulley he asked if that solved the problem ,i explained what other adjustments we made he ask how many concave bars were in the machine and said he almost always run three and on some crops two,when i went to set it up for corn i found 4 concave bars and a set of rasp bars ,removed all but three as he instructed been that way every sense use it for corn,beans,milo,wheat and oats just change cylinder speed and concave clearance to match crop except corn has to have filler bars,if the cowpeas and VINES ARE DRY try setting your concave at 3/8 inch, cylinder at 400 rpms cut a short distance check the straw to see that it's not ground up or seed not threshed out and see what the seed in the tank look like adjust accordingly

pea_grower · Sep 24, 2012

Still working on this. Have decided to start by leaving the channel concave on the rock door as JMS suggested. Will pull the rest out, except I wanted to put one rasp concave (half-round) in the back to slow the flow, as Averyman mentioned. Thought that might allow the peas to ride over easier without cracking so many.

Now the question. Apparently, these come in 3 pieces to go the full cylinder width. Anybody have one of these 3-piece sets? I'd rather not buy the full 15-piece set.

Here are the cowpeas in late August. They don't look this good now, dry weather is causing leaf drop, but they have a few pods. Rows are wider than 48".

[/img]

F2 to harvest peas after frost

pea_grower

Member

JMS/.MN

Well-known Member

gbs

Member

Averyman

Member

pea_grower

Member

Averyman

Member

JMS/.MN

Well-known Member

gbs

Member

pea_grower

Member

Similar threads