3300 spits straw right back out the feederhouse

rockyridgefarm

Well-known Member
Hey All,

I'm still plugging along with this 3300. Today I got to replace the bearing behind the top cylinder speed pulley. I didn't think $28 was too bad until they dinged me another $14 for the locking collar... Shoulda been more careful taking the old one off. I've also replaced the bearings that hold the shaft that runs the fan.

Before she went down for bearing replacement three days ago, a new problem had started manifesting. The straw was getting spit right back out the feederhouse. Today it was really aggravating. It seemed where the barley was in the sun and clean, it just fed for crap. In weeds or after the sun started setting, it'd feed just fine. Is it just the fact that we're so bone dry or is there something I can adjust? The combine is also having a tough time getting the beards off. I think the bars on the cylinder might be worn and they're NLA.

All in all, I don't think this combine is gonna have the capacity i need. It may be fine on flat ground, but I'm nearly all on contour strips and 10 degrees plus of tilt really takes a LOT of capacity away from and already small combine.
 
What do the cylinder bars look like? If they are really smooth, the cylinder won't draw the grain in to it and won't thresh good. What is the clearence between cylinder and concave??
 
I had my 1160 do the same thing and found that as it was set up for corn it had filler bars on the cylinder after I removed these she had the proper "draw" again and feed great, I have also seen a improperly set stripper bar cause this backfeeding problem and or the feeder house chain set to tight on Case machines will also increase this propblem in dry/brittle straw conditions not sure if these same things will help on the JD but may be some thing to check, I knew a man here who bought a 3300 new here and ran it for 15 years before his death and he really liked that machine and it did a very good job for him cnt
 

Hey all,

I think the straw is actually going around the cylinder and getting spit back out as it looks threshed when it comes out. I'm gonna look at the beater today. Neighbor also said to look at the concave to see if I'm missing wires. That may be the cause of the beards not getting knocked off.

How much depth should the rasps on the bar be? I have at lest 1/4 inch, if not 3/8 inch.
 
Check the beater and also the stripper plate above the cylinder. Also, be sure the concave is proportioned to the cylinder as your manual states. This being out of adjustment can cause your trouble as can slug feeding from the feederhouse. Too wide a concave spacing can do so as well. Mike
 
When your doing BEARDED Barley you can almost forget about getting all the beards off . First year we had that stuff i spent a day tryen to adjust fine tune my 300 Massey and to no end . Just about like doing Speltz it just ain't a going to happen . So next year do not plant Bearded Barley get the unbearded kind.
 

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