MF 300 Combine

What is the top speed - road gear - for a MF 300? Going to get one 90 miles away - trying to figure out if I should just drive it or have it hauled - will haul the corn and grain heads on a trailer?
Thanks

Drove a IH 403 - a bigger machine than a 300 - the same distance two months ago and it was a piece of cake. Just take the back roads and you'll be fine. It's also MUCH cheaper than having it hauled. I only spent $50ish in gas.

owned one years ago 12-15 mph wicoico md?

Hi, Literature says 13.2 MPH with 18:4-26 tires.
Chuck

Congrats on the300 ,, been running one since 1986 ,Without the governor hooked up, Mine will go at least 15 mph ,,. I do watch the revs on that motor .. Slant 6 is a tuff engine , If I were you ,Put the head on a trailer if its a 33 or a 13 ft grain table , or else weight the heck out of the rear axle , If this machine has seen no action for serveral monthes or YEARS ?..check the drive belt and be prepared to adjust along the way ,,15/16s wrench , ( I ruined a decent traction belt on a gleanor F we resurrected last week ,, on the treacherous hill climb coming out of its happy hollow it surged itself to bits )... If you have down hillcurves , gravel rds with cliffs over the side like I did when I 1st got the 300 , you will take your time , One tap of the brake and you could turn 90 degrees instantly with a 13 ft head hanging on the front ,, Guess How I know???!!

As said below, how long has it sat? There are three common things I can remember (we used to run them) than can zap you on that trip if you road it. Number 1 is those drive belts. Dont fall into the lore that tightening them will cause them to go bad quicker or break. Slippage is what trashes them and they are a weak point. If they slip, stop and tighten them. Because of the way the vari-speed works they will be tightest at the highest speed postition. Second thing that can zap you is the brakes. They stick both ways, off and on, you need to make sure that they BOTH work and release. One brake doesnt cut it either when on the road!! You need both. Third thing is the clutch. If you look under the cab while somebody works the clutch pedal you will notice that the rod that goes into the clutch housing rotates to work the clutch. They often rust were the shaft enters the the housing. You over power the sticking to release it but when you let off the pedal the sticking shaft holds the throwout bearing against the pressure plate. By the time you are home (or before) you are going to need some expensive clutch parts. All it takes is some pen-oil and work it and it frees right up. One other thing is those clicker type fuel pumps don't like sitting and will give some troubles. Usualy all you have to do is rap them and they will take off again.

Not trying to scare you out of roading it (unless it doesnt have brakes) but be prepared for some roadside tinkering.

It would make a big diference in your decision if the drive will be hilly or flat. My 300 didn't like climbing in high gear. When you park it remember to lock the clutch pedal down so it won't be stuck after a long period of sitting in the off season.

Thanks for all the comments and the list of things to check. It is a 33 corn and 13' grain -they will be trailered - Going up to verify final transaction and inspection within the next week or so - flat/paved road - unfortunately - would need to drive thru suburbia - got a farmer friend 1/2 way so I would probably do it over 2 days if driven- if it appears "iffy" with the condition of belts/brakes/clutch - i will just have it hauled- I am pleased that it should get over 10mph - that was my biggest concern- Once it is home - I'm sure I will have some other questions - until then - Thanks

I was going an easy 15 MPH in my 403. After the first hour of driving, you basically turn into a robot and forget all about how long the drive is. It goes faster than you think.

Make sure if the traction belt lunches it won't take out the brake line. It is ugly with no brakes or gearing going down hill. With a narrow bridge at the bottom. With a grain head.

I read the clutch info you posted...on mine the clutch won't release. It did the year before. I can start it in gear after it has wormed up. I looked at the linkage and the throw out bearing seems to move on the main shaft ok, so is there any way that it is held shut? I have worked on cars but it seems that this is working in reverse to me if I were to stand on the clutch peddle nothing happens... so if I lengthen the shaft it would push the bearing in more? of course there is only me to work on this, my arms and feet won't make the reach! Thanks for posting what you did.