Calling all fabircators. Input wanted on rear blade fab

tcanthonyii · Jan 5, 2009

've been thinking about how to build a rear blade for my Cub Cadet model 70 for a while. I've even been hording an old hot water heater and bought the sleeve hitch for the cub and installed it. This weekend I picked up a snow/dirt blade for a David Bradley for a mere 3 Dollars! In the pictures I have sort of dawn up my idea to turn it into a rear blade. I think my plan keeps the integrity of the blade also in case I ever buy a David which I would like to some day. I think I can do it all out of heavy angle iron and actually out of 2 pieces. One for each side. I'll just make a relief cut in the bends and well a piece back in for structural integrity. The beauty too is that I can angle the blade. You can't see in the pictures but there is no cutting edge on the bottom of the blade and it is actually quite rounded. I think I will make a cutting edge out of flat steel and blot that on as well. I plan to use this for small snows and grading and leveling my driveway which is almost all rock. I'm also working this summer on leveling out small parts of my yard. Any ideas or changes welcome.

T.C.

Trailer Trash Tractors · Jan 6, 2009

Seems to me, a wheeled frame would make transporting easier. I'd make a bracket to fit David Bradley plow. Some S type hooks could be added to plow for more weight [ 5 gal pails of rocks ] without hurting appearance.

A bumper jack could take work out of setting height. I've also seen electric boat winches used to raise / lower blade. Sounds like a useful tool

Dave Sherburne NY · Jan 6, 2009

You could probably cut the top half of the blade off to make a stronger hitch, and still have about all that tractor could handle. I have a factory made one for a Power King, and its about 8" high

Anonymous-0 · Jan 6, 2009

You'd like a square tubing frame a lot better than angle iron - look at how the Sears and Brinley blades are made for garden tractors. I'd make an L out of square tubing and weld the "U for the sleeve hitch on the long end. Then weld a square of steel sheet on the short end of the L. Bolt the edges of the square sheet to the bracket that's already on the blade.

Check and see what a factory cutting edge costs - they last a lot longer and you can drill that blade for the correct bolt spacing.

Billstoybox · Jan 6, 2009

How about this one. Someone put some time and thought into it. You just slip it into top hitch, pin it and go.
Rear Blade

tcanthonyii · Jan 6, 2009

No doubt that one is cool.

I'm going to stick with angle for the first attempt as I already have some. If it doesn't work then I'm not out anything. I re thought my approach a little as I'm going to need to put some gussets from the angle may bar on the back down to the hitch.

it will be lifted for transport. it will be hooked to the sleeve hitch to be lifted.

Thanks guys.

T.C.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 7, 2009

Just remember that you can weld two pieces of angle iron together and have square tubing.

Billstoybox · Jan 7, 2009

Here's another one I just saw on ebay someone built that looks pretty good.
Brinley Blade

504-2 · Jan 20, 2009

I bought a catI, 5 ft blade and added catO pins,I used a 2 in square tube to mount the pins and welded it too the front of the original mounts. It can be used on a garden tractor or a small tractor (8-N)it is a little wide for snow but I could cut the blade off a little. These blades are going for less than $50.00 at farm sales.

Calling all fabircators. Input wanted on rear blade fab

tcanthonyii

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Trailer Trash Tractors

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Dave Sherburne NY

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Anonymous-0

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Billstoybox

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tcanthonyii

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Anonymous-0

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Billstoybox

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504-2

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