broken bolts

I have a Briggs engine that came off of a push lawn mower. Two bolts broke off when removing the engine. The frame is aluminum or some sort of light weight metal. Can these be heated to get them out or what? I need to put the engine on another frame. Thanks for any information.

I would use an easyout.can be purchased at any good auto supply.You will need to take the broken bolt pieces with you for correct sizing.Dude11

A basic rule of mechanics is that "Easy-outs" aren't "easy".

If the bolts broke 'cause they are corroded in place, NO WAY will an "easy-out" remove them.

You will be out the $$$ spent on the Easy-out AND have to deal with removing what is left of the Easy-out" after you break it off inside the already broken off bolt!

Try using Brakefree,WD40,hot oil or something to soak around the bolt & block.May have to soak awhile.Heating can damage engine.Second,try drilling bolt out and replace with bolt & nut.DO IT ALL THE TIME,saves time.

I am going on infomation given.A photo would help.If the bolt is steel and base is aluminum,and easy-out will more than likely work.If you have used them in the past on "like objects" you know it's not that hard.I have had very good luck working with head bolts in small engines that have aluminum cases.I normally soak them in break-free prior to the removeal.What works for one may not work for another.If not you can always drill it out and use a heli-coil.Sounds like you have had some trouble in the past.Dude11

I assume that you are referring to the crankcase when you are saying frame. The Briggs case is an aluminum die-casting. The bolt is likely corroded in place and you may have to do a fair amount of work to get it out. I would try soaking with oil first. If that fails you could try a torch but be careful not to melt the casing. This goes liquid at 1100 degrees which is well within the range of a propane torch.

I've had ' some ' luck welding a nut to the broken stub, and using a wrench to turn stub out.

Gently heat area, will melt at low temp compared to steel, squirt water on bolt to keep it cool and hard. I agree Easy Outs aren't
easy.

try a left handed drill bit smaller than the bolt you have to run the drill in reverse to use one ,a lot of times the bolt will spin out but soak it good with a good penatrating oil first

If your still working on this machine or to put in your bag of tricks for another day you might try this. Being cheap and easy I use A paraffin block (used to seal home made jams and jelly jars) or A paraffin candle(ask the S.O. if she has an old stub around. Using her best candles will not make you her "flavor of the day"!) Take A torch of your choice and heat the broken bolt stub for A bit. Longer for A large bolt or A short time for A small bolt. You want it hot enough to melt the wax so it will run down the threads into the casting or nut that is holding it solid. Allow the wax to cool before you try to back out the bolt. This trick has worked for me at least 90% of the time if the stub is long enough to get A vice grip on it. If it's not long enough to get A grip on and A mig welder is available A nut can be welded on but apply the wax to the stub before you try to back it out. Another penetrating oil I like is Kroil. The only problem with it is that it must be mail ordered and it's kind of pricy but it's good stuff.I liken it to if WD-40=beer...Kroil=J.D. Old #7 Good Luck!

P.S. Before you reassemble this machine, or any machine you might want to disassemble down the line, use A good anti-seize product on it. I bought A can from the local Caterpillar dealer about 10 years ago and it should last 6 more until I retire. Than I'll sell the half can thats left on e-bay!