I've got the Kohler K321 AQS engine on my CC 1450 stripped down and removed the flywheel to replace the crankshaft oil seal behind it. The oil seal on the PTO side of the engine is going to be easy to replace, but the one behind the flywheel I'm not so sure. Do you have to remove the bearing plate to replace the seal? I'm asking because I removed the stator and still don't see the oil seal visible with bearing plate on. I don't care to remove the bearing plate because of dealing with setting end play gap on crankshaft and getting that right. How bad a job is it?
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wore out
Well-known Member
Seal can be replaced externally. It can be pulled out with a small screw-tipped autobody dent puller being CAREFUL not to damage the bore or crankshaft sealing surface.
Kohler supplied a special driver to install the seal, I made my own on the lathe.
Details of seal installation depth can be found on Pages 12.10 and 12.11 in the .pdf at the link below.
https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf
wore out
Well-known Member
CHARGING system is ONE thing, IGNITION system is another.
As to the charging system, early Kohlers had a belt-driven starter-generator, then they changed to a more conventional starter and under-flywheel alternator.
Ignition system started with an under-flywheel magneto, then a battery ignition system with a ''round can'' automotive-type ignition coil mounted to the engine cowling sheet metal, then an electronic ignition system with and odd-shaped ''plastic'' coil mounted to the engine cowling sheet metal, and eventually, back to the automotive-style battery ignition.
Does your engine have breaker points? tracing the sparkplug wire, does it go under the flywheel or to an automotive-style coil, or to the odd-shaped EI coil?
I'm pretty sure you replace the flywheel crankshaft oil seal from inside the aluminum bearing plate. Sounds
like you should buy the complete engine seal kit. Comes with crankshaft oil seals, an assortment of bearing
plate gaskets in various thicknesses, oil pan gaskets, head gaskets,etc.
Setting crankshaft end play is not hard, I've done 4 engines over the years, first 10 hp I rebuilt ran
1400+ hard hours mowing, blowing snow, and mold boards plowed several large gardens and attended 5-6 Cub Cadet
Plow Days. The FREE Kohler K-series engine service manual explains in detail how to set crankshaft end play.
Do a search for Kohler K-Series Service Manual and print yourself off a copy from Kohler's website.
like you should buy the complete engine seal kit. Comes with crankshaft oil seals, an assortment of bearing
plate gaskets in various thicknesses, oil pan gaskets, head gaskets,etc.
Setting crankshaft end play is not hard, I've done 4 engines over the years, first 10 hp I rebuilt ran
1400+ hard hours mowing, blowing snow, and mold boards plowed several large gardens and attended 5-6 Cub Cadet
Plow Days. The FREE Kohler K-series engine service manual explains in detail how to set crankshaft end play.
Do a search for Kohler K-Series Service Manual and print yourself off a copy from Kohler's website.
I am thinking that the depth of the seal is in that manual 'Woreout' gave you a link to.
For what it is worth, If there is a groove in the crank where the old seal ran, you want to place the new seal so the inner lip of the new
seal does not fall in that groove. If there is a groove you will have to determine whether you need the seal a bit deeper or not nearly as
deep in the bore. Also, it is important the seal is the same depth all the way around and not cocked in the bore.
One good reason the seal is not put in the cover before the cover is installed is the bearing is in the cover. If the bearing (or anything
else binds such as crank, piston, rod, or bearings, you can determine that before installing the seal. Checking for binding or requiring
excessive force just to roll the engine over is very important if you are overhauling the engine.
Another reason the seal is installed after the cover is put on is that it becomes much easier to damage the new seal while installing the
cover.
For what it is worth, If there is a groove in the crank where the old seal ran, you want to place the new seal so the inner lip of the new
seal does not fall in that groove. If there is a groove you will have to determine whether you need the seal a bit deeper or not nearly as
deep in the bore. Also, it is important the seal is the same depth all the way around and not cocked in the bore.
One good reason the seal is not put in the cover before the cover is installed is the bearing is in the cover. If the bearing (or anything
else binds such as crank, piston, rod, or bearings, you can determine that before installing the seal. Checking for binding or requiring
excessive force just to roll the engine over is very important if you are overhauling the engine.
Another reason the seal is installed after the cover is put on is that it becomes much easier to damage the new seal while installing the
cover.
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