Toro Zero Turn No start/No PTO problem

r8f1k

Member
I have a 2007 vintage Toro Z Master 60" mower, had it about 4 years, bought it with 2000 hours. Replace the engine last year with a new Kawasaki, new PTO clutch, new belts, spindles, etc. Ran great, not an issue at all. Today, I was running it in some thicker stuff, something must have hooked the wires that go to the electric clutch and pulled the wires down and into the deck belt. The mower stopped. I found the wires, wrapped them up as best I could, sorted out what had happened and tried to start it up. Nothing. Looked around and found nothing out of the ordinary, but I also had no relay click or solenoid click. Check the fuses and someone replaced all three with 40 Amp maxi's. One was blown, replaced it and I got my click from the relays, but no start. No crank, no start, nothing. Tried jumping it from the battery, nothing. Jumped the solenoid terminals and she cranked. Turned on the key, jumped the solenoid, started right up. Pulled the PTO button, nothing. Not a thing. Soooooo.....I drove it back to the barn and looked around and established the following. 1) Battery is fully charged. 2) When it is running, it is charging. 3) Both relays that are switched by the handles, click when you move the handle bars. 4) Replaced the solenoid (because I had an extra laying around), no change. 5) PTO clutch, when by-passed, engages and disengages when touched to 12 volts, so it still works. 6) Pulling the PTO button does nothing.

Please help in any way.....
 
Without being there and testing with my own equipment, I'm kinda lost.

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?

If so, do you have 12v between the two wires going to the clutch that you had to fix?

How many ohms do you read between the two terminals on the clutch itself? Should be at least two, most likely between 2 ohms and 5 ohms.
If its less than two ohms, your clutch winding is drawing too much current. That is probably why there are 40 amp fuses in the fuse block. And most likely your PTO switch contacts are bad. Or the contacts in the relay that allows power to the PTO.

Witout an electrical schematic for the mower, I won't be much help at all to diagnose the no-start with the key problem.
 
I will get a schematic and put it on this site. I do NOT get 12 volts out of the wires that lead to the clutch. However, I still have a no start situation, which I think still prevents there from being 12 volts there. I do get 0.004 volts when I use my meter with the switch off, turn the PTO on, and I get 0.011. I have not checked the overall resistance in the clutch, again it is only a year old, but it does have continuity.
I am pretty sure this is the wiring diagram:

http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-commercial/mowers-zero-turn-lawn-mower/74262-z560-toro-z-master-mower-60-turbo-force-side-discharge-deck-sn-270000001-270002000-2007/electrical-assembly/
 
That might explain the PTO problem, but the no start situation is still not explained. This model machine will start with the seat in the raised position as if you were jumping it. Still not sure what else to look at.
 
When you get your electrical schematic, Check first for power at the starter solenoid small post. I don't know which solenoid you have, but if there are two small posts, one of them shoud be hot in 'start' and one should be ground.
If your solenoid gets power in 'start' and it is grounded, either through the case (if its a 1 small post solenoid) or through the other small post, then the solenoid is not working, probably need to replace it.

If you have no power at the solenoid in 'start', remove the cover so you can see the ignition switch, find the hot wire with your volt meter, its usually red.

If none of the wires in the plug are getting 12v., your problem is between the switch and the battery. Its not uncommon to find corroded terminals in the fuse holder, for instance. It could also be a broken wire, corrosion at the big hot post at the solenoid, corroded battery terminals, etc.

If there is 12v on one of the wires, Use your ohm meter to find which post on the switch that only gets current when in the 'start' position, trace that wire wherever it goes checking switches and relays as you go. You will eventually trace the circuit all the way to the solenoid. That is where your electrical schematic comes in very handy.

If your mower is as big a Toro as I think it is, it could also have a delay module. I am thinking a bad delay module would cause more of a "cranks, but won't start" problem.
 
There appear to be two separate NO switches and a seat delay module. Without a schematic, it's impossible to tell how they should work.
 
With 40 amp fuse and a short from the mangled PTO clutch wires, I think the logical place to look is the PTO switch. I think it fried or wires to the switch are fried. The start circuit looks at PTO off before allowing engine cranking, with a destroyed PTO switch no crank will occur and the deck will not engage.
 
Here is the diagram

http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-commercial/mowers-zero-turn-lawn-mower/74262-z560-toro-z-master-mower-60-turbo-force-side-discharge-deck-sn-270000001-270002000-2007/electrical-assembly/
 
Here is my solenoid, it is new as of Saturday. Still no start.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200394852_200394852?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Snow%20%2B%20Ice%20Removal%20%3E%20Snowplow%20Replacement%20Parts%20%3E%20Solenoid&utm_campaign=SAM&utm_content=571658&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsKX-spS03AIVGrjACh3mSAxoEAQYASABEgLQavD_BwE
 
I will check the ignition switch for voltage and check backwards from there. It do have voltage at all of my fuses when I check the top of the fuse while it is plugged in with the key on. I am getting no cranking at all out of my machine when the key is used. If I jump one side of the solenoid to the other, starts right up. HOWEVER, once started, the PTO still DOES NOT work. WHAT IS GOING ON?!!!!
 
You're going to need a real electrical schematic. The pic of the harness and parts doesn't show how they are interconnected and function. I found an example online, but can't tell if it fits your model. In that particular Toro, the two switches I mentioned earlier are used to assure the pto is off and the traction pedal is not depressed.
 
Found it. It was the PTO switch. The switch was bad on one side internally. Since it is full time 12 volt at that switch, it needs that path to complete the start circuit. I was able to bypass it and the mower started right up. Thank you guys for all your help. It is amazing what knowledge comes from these forums!!!
 

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