JD 110 Flat fender

normg7

New User
I have a 110 flat fender serial number 133xxx. I have no spark, power to the points but no spark. Any suggestions on where to go next?
 
Points, Coil, Condenser, Plug Wire..

Clean the point contacts and make sure they are grounded good and set properly.

Plug wire. Check it for breaks or bad connections at the coil and plug ends.

If all is good. Test the coil to make sure it is good.
 
You say you have power to the points... how are you measuring that?

HOPEFULLY you are not "seeing" battery voltage there, which would destroy the coil in the magneto.

That can happen when the wrong ignition switch is installed my mistake.
 
If you have power to the points you do not have a magneto ignition
system. If you had one before you hooked the 12 volt wire to the system,
it is dead now. The magneto system has a ground wire.

If it has a Tecumseh HH100, there is a good chance it has the NLA Tecumseh electronic ignition.
There is a replacement system from Kirk Engines, and lots of home brew systems on YouTube videos.
 
As far as I can tell its all original. There are 2 wires coming from the magneto. They attach to the condenser then the points. I have power at the terminal where they attach to the condenser but no spark. Everything else electrical works. But the PTO switch Is backwards, It wont turn over unless the PTO is engaged
 
Are you "seeing" power to the condenser while the engine is cranking over, or while the ignition switch is "ON" and you are not cranking the engine over?

Near as I can tell, for a 110 of that serial number, the engine would be a K241 Kohler,
and have magneto ignition.

There should be NO power at the points or condenser unless the engine is cranking, and the magneto is making voltage.

There would be only one wire coming from the under-flywheel magneto, connected to the points and condenser, then a "kill" wire running back to the ignition switch which must NEVER be powered by the igntion switch.
 
K, what more can I say, I've tried to help you. You are unwilling the accept the fact that a magneto system and battery power/voltage don't mix.

It's a magneto system, I'm gonna try this ONE more time, if you are "seeing" battery voltage there, likely someone has installed the wrong ignition switch or mucked up the wiring.

At that point, if the magneto coil has been fed battery voltage, likely all the magic $$$$ smoke has been let out of it.
 
(quoted from post at 12:01:25 06/21/18) It has a magneto ignition system. Is there a way to check the magneto?
o to " Free Kohler Service Manual Downloads-OPEengines.com " go down to
K-Series Single & Twin
K91-K141-K161-K181-K241-K301-K321-K341
and down load the PDFile
Sec 8. Electrical Systems and Components starts at pg.. 71/135 (no matter which engine you have, Page 72 is the typical flywheel magneto ignition system, As Bob say's no other battery power should be introduced to this system !!
 
A picture of the engine would help a lot.
A picture of the ignition system on the
side of the engine would help a lot more.
Help us hep you.
 

mvphoto18958.jpg


mvphoto18959.jpg


mvphoto18960.jpg


Here are some pictures
 
I THINK I see what's going on.those copper wound coils are for the charging system,and operate independently of that magneto in there.That part does connect to the battery.Track those wires down,see where they go.I think you'll find somebody thought it was all the same unit because it was under the flywheel and did some weird wiring to it.It's been a long time since I've seen that combination.My old 10,12,and 16 HP Kohlers are all early 70's and use convential battery/coil ignition.
 
It DOES appear you have the wrong ignition switch. There's quite a few versions of these switches that look very much alike but are very different internally and in function.

Correct switch for your 110 s.n. 133xxx appears to be DEERE #AM31995, which fits 110's starting at serial number 130,001.

DEERE lists this switch as being "bronze" in color.

Switches for these little tractors having a magneto ignition have the terminal where the mag "kill" wire connects labelled "M" for "magneto", and the battery ignition versions don't have a "M" terminal, but instead an "I" (ignition) terminal to supply POWER to an external, battery ignition coil. Yours appears to have an "I" terminal.

Also, the mag switches typically have one terminal (that functions at shutdown to ground out the mag) that is jumpered over to the case of the switch with a little brass strip, as can be seen in the "5 o'clock" position in the photo below.

<img src = "http://oi65.tinypic.com/xduwzm.jpg">

If you DO have the wrong switch and battery power to the coil/condenser/coil, it's very possible/likely that the point are burned and the coil has been overheat and destroyed.

At the condenser, there will be 3 wires, one from the coil, one to the points, and one that enters the wiring harness and is the "kill" wire to the ignition switch. (This is shown on .pdf page 169.) Disconnect the "kill" wire, and the magneto should spark if nothing is damaged, however, if you start the engine with this wire disconnected, OBVIOUSLY the ignition switch can't shut it down. It appears the "kill" wire is white.

You can download the official manual at the link below, magneto ignition is covered on .pdf pages 169 - 180, including coil specifications which MAY show if the coil has been damaged "open" or "shorted".

<img src = "http://oi63.tinypic.com/ruoa51.jpg">
110 Service Manual
 

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