Wheel-horse C-120 Starter keeps breaking

vezult

Member
Is it possible to buy a decent starter for my c-120? The original lasted for 40 years. I bought a replacement. I actually bought 2. One for each of my tractors (each from a different vendor). The new ones both have the same design and problem.

The gear at the end of the shaft is 2 parts:
* a metal piece threaded on the helical threads on the shaft
* the pinion gear which does not touch the shaft

They are joined by a piece of rubber around the outside of each.

On the original one, it is all one piece, no rubber.

The problem is that eventually, the bond between the rubber and the threaded piece breaks, and then the gear gets stuck engaged, while the other piece retracts. Did I just happen to buy crappy starters? They all *appear* to be made the same way, regardless of where I look for them. Is there some trick to fixing these? I've re-glued them with plastic epoxy, and that works for a while, but they always break again in the same way. I'm getting tired of it.

Any ideas?

Original is red, replacement is silver:

mvphoto13447.jpg
 
Either get your original starter re-built or replace it with an OEM. Problem solved. Most "will fit" parts are junk.
 
You might want to check the operation of the ACR (Automatic Compression Release) and the valve settings. A "loose" exhaust valve setting, or any other issues with the ACR makes the engine a LOT tougher to crank (can even backfire), and is hard on the starter drive.

Note... with lots of use, the tips of the valves wear divots in the top of the adjusting screws making checking the tappet clearance with a feeler gauge less than accurate... look for wear on the screws.

ACR info starts on .pdf Page #95 of the factory service manual linked below.
Kohler 301 Service Manual
 
I agree with Bob. See his post.

Also, if you have installed new points recently, your timing may be off.

On a K341 in a 416-8 recently, I found it started better if the points were set to .017. That was after a new camshaft and a valve adjustment. At .020 the timing was too early and the starter just couldn't spin it over compression and would stall. This was done after I added an extra ground wire directly from the battery negative to the starter mount bolt and made sure I had good clean connections on the positive battery cable.

That new style Bendix with the rubber in it is about all we can get for Kohlers any more. You will probably get something similar if you buy a genuine Kohler starter.
 

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