Tractor

Got a john deere 112 with a kohler k241 engine in it replaced the coil and condenser and still ain't
getting any spark could it be the points need replaced not really sure what else it could be??

Dont panic yet. You most likely need to clean the points. Even brand new they have a film on them that acts as an insulator. I use 1000 grit sand paper and just make one or two passes. Wash with carb cleaner.

Below is a link to the Kohler factory service manual for that engine. You can download it and save it, if you'd like. (.pdf format)

When you have cleaned or replaced the points it's a good idea to set the ignition timing as detailed in the manual. (Point gap determines timing.)

There's troubleshooting info in the manual, as well.
K series

So when the points are opening and shutting should there be a spark in between?

IF eng has a 12V battery ign system double check coil connections,+12v to + terminal on coil and condenser/point lead connected to -(neg)terminal on coil,if polarity on coil reversed or condenser connected to wrong coil terminal you won't get spark even if points good/working,also check that wire from points to coil isn't shorted to block.

If connections check out ok then connect a 12v test light/voltmeter to +(pos)terminal on coil turn on ign sw & check for 12v at coil then crank eng & check for 12v at coil,IF you lose 12v to coil in one/both positions you have an ign sw or wiring problem on tractor.If you still can't get spark download service/repair manual for eng as Bob said.

You might have a tiny tiny spark when the points open. Spark at the points is a indication of dirty points or a bad condenser. I'm guessing you need to clean the points.

(quoted from post at 19:19:26 01/28/18) IF eng has a 12V battery ign system double check coil connections,+12v to + terminal on coil and condenser/point lead connected to -(neg)terminal on coil,if polarity on coil reversed or condenser connected to wrong coil terminal you won't get spark even if points good/working,also check that wire from points to coil isn't shorted to block.

If connections check out ok then connect a 12v test light/voltmeter to +(pos)terminal on coil turn on ign sw & check for 12v at coil then crank eng & check for 12v at coil,IF you lose 12v to coil in one/both positions you have an ign sw or wiring problem on tractor.If you still can't get spark download service/repair manual for eng as Bob said.

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"if polarity on coil reversed or condenser connected to wrong coil terminal you won't get spark"

NO! If coil primary terminal polarity is reversed there WILL still be spark at the plug, but it will be 20 to 30% less effective.

GOOGLE "thermionic emission" or "the Edison effect" for more info.

(quoted from post at 21:19:26 01/28/18) IF you lose 12v to coil in one/both positions you have an ign sw or wiring problem on tractor

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Joe makes a great point (as usual!) regarding the switch. If that tractor has set out in the weather at all, it's not unusual for the switch contacts to corrode. I chased a non-charging Kohler issue for several years before I finally figured out it was simply the 40 year old ignition switch causing the problem.

Just want to add:
(I am assuming this Kohler has battery/coil ignition.)

Do you have a volt/ohm meter? If you do, check for 12v or near 12v. on the coil (+) positive terminal.
If you have 12v. there, problem is on engine. If no 12v. on that terminal, your issue is in the wiring on the mower chassis.

If the problem is on the engine, check for voltage on the wire to the points, at the terminal screw on the points.
When the points are open, there should be some voltage there, but probably not 12 volts. If the points are closed, you may not see any or very low voltage there, so roll the engine over until the points open and check again.

If you have voltage to the points, try filing the points, or replace the points, like someone else suggested. Point gap should be about .018 or .019, sometimes less. (Point gap will change some if timing is adjusted to spec.) If you have no voltage at the points, try a different wire between the coil (-) and the points. I have seen that wire short through the insulation and kill the spark, sometimes intermittently.

Some other thoughts if still no spark: I have seen points grounded to point cover on those covers with the grounding plunger in the cover. I have also seen engines have problems firing with a resistor sparkplug wire. You can substitute a piece of stiff sold copper residential wire temporarily for a sparplug wire, just bend it so it is about 1 inch from anything it can ground to. Try another known-to-be-good coil. Try another known-to-be-good condenser.

Hope this helps.

hope this helps.
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