Tecumseh 16hp coil? adjustment

fpappal · Nov 20, 2017

I need to adjust the gap between my new flywheel and the coil. Is it even correct to call it a coil? This engine does not appear to have any type of points, so I am assuming what I am adjusting is an electronic ignition? My problem is the two Philips head screws are not budging. I am trying my best to not round over the slots. I have sprayed them with PB Blaster, and used a little heat on them. They still do not want to move. Any suggestions to loosen then up? I am also assuming these are slotted holes which will allow me to get my .020. Is this correct?

Thanks.

MNGB · Nov 20, 2017

Hi yes you have to get the screws loose to adjust the air gap, I use a impact driver the type that you hit with a hammer it will generally loosen stubborn screws. Yes Tecumseh refers to that ignition system as a SSI (solid state ignition) it is a magneto system be extremely care full to NOT connect any part of it to 12 V DC it will fry the SSI instantly and there are no new OEM replacements but there is an aftermarket system for $150.00 that works perfect. I'll attach a link to a website so you can dowm load the manual you need its called Tecumseh Cast Iron engines service manual it covers the engine your working on a OH160 and the air gap for the long pin is 0.006" to 0.010" and the short pin is the same.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/tecumseh/manuals.html

Bob · Nov 20, 2017

Have you tried to start it?

If module is not contacting flywheel and gap isn't huge, I'd try to start it before risking breaking off those screws. YAMMV.

fpappal · Nov 20, 2017

Thank you for the reply. I will have to find one of those impact drivers you mention. I read the manual you sent a link to. The recoil housing on the engine that says "breaker point gap 0.20". However the manual clearly states .006/.010. Did some of these engines have points instead of the SSI? If it is indeed the .006/.010 I think I may be in luck, that is about what it looks like. I will see if I have spark before I try and loosen those stubborn screws. Thanks.

MNGB · Nov 20, 2017

The recoil housing maybe from another engine, as far as I know Tecuseh never made any of the Overhead valve engines with anything but SSI.
GB in MN

Russ from MN · Nov 21, 2017

You are confusing breaker point gap with magneto coil clearance, don't try to fix something that's not broken yet. They used to say when setting the magneto coil clearance to use the paper from the box it came in, must of been about .010. Why is this engine such a rusty mess? It looks like something from the scrap heap! Are you sure it's worth all this work and expense?

fpappal · Nov 21, 2017

The pictures make it looks worse than it really is. The rest of the engine is in good shape. A mouse made a nest in the recoil housing, it was packed solid. I am thinking the mouse waste is what caused all the rust. I got a flywheel and stator for $50 and they are in great condition. I will take a picture of the final product when I get it back on the tractor. Pretty cool setup. It goes on a Tuff-bilt tractor and I am trying to keep things original. The engine ran just fine until the magnets on the flywheel let loose.

This engine has a shaft on both ends which is needed for the tractor. The rear facing shaft is used to power the PTO unit. I am not sure where I would find a suitable replacement.

MNGB · Nov 21, 2017

If the Tecumseh isn't wore out they are very good engine they have good power and torque and the OH's are not bad for gas usage, As for a replacement both B&S and Kohler engine can be fitted with a PTO shaft on the flywheel side of the engine. How about posting some pictures of the tractor would be fun to see it I know wjat they are but didn't know they used a Tecumseh in them.
GB in MN

fpappal · Nov 21, 2017

I will definitely do that once I get it back together. The owners manual of the tractor actually lists the Tecumseh as the correct engine. It even gives all the part numbers that are still good numbers.

MNGB · Nov 21, 2017

Oh yea I believe that it was an OEM engine back then that Tecumseh was at the top I know Case used them in a small skid loader and there were other OEM apps, I look forward to the pictures I'm thinking it would be an interesting tractor for a winter project but there are very few of them up here in the upper Midwest.
GB in MN

fpappal · Nov 21, 2017

I got spark!! Put the new flywheel and stator on and I now have spark. All I need to do is put the engine back on the tractor. Hopefully I can get to that in the new few days and then I will send along some pics. Thanks for all the help.

Texasmark1 · Nov 22, 2017

On getting the screws out, I have a mechanical impact tool that accepts hexagon shaft bits that are impact resistant. This device has a reversing mechanism where you can apply pressure in either direction. You put the insert into the device to be removed and whack it with a hammer. You get 2 mechanisms into play here: 1. You are applying pressure to the screw which helps it stay seated and not strip out the screw and 2. You are applying impact pressure which is Soooooo much better in removing stubborn hardware without damaging it. If you can find one of them it should do the trick.

On the gap I'd have to dig out my Tecumseh small engine manual..............but I could if asked!

Tecumseh 16hp coil? adjustment

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