1973 troy bilt horse tiller belts

wfw

Member
I have hard clay soil. working the troy bilt in the garden. this tiller was given to me with a bad engine about 6 months ago and I have replaced the engine. the belts will quit pulling the lower pulley if I go to deep and the tiller stops. engine is running but only about half power until break in is complete. the belts look good. no cracks it them and they were on the tiller when I got it. I do not see any adjustment on the tiller for the belts. Any suggestions on this problem? I may have to replace them if they continue to slip. Thanks in advance.
 
I have a Troy built Horse. It only has one belt. I tension the belt by moving the small cast-iron block that the roller at the end of the forward/reverse lever rides on. Move the block downward to tighten the belt. It doesn't take much movement of the block to tighten the belt.
 
Rather than doing a lot of typing myself, I'll direct you to another article. Read through it and it should help you on your way. If not, post back what you're missing.
belt adjustment
 
OK let us keep it simple. If you have a machine from the eightys and up it should have two belts. Something I found a couple of weeks ago, go to tractor supply and they have a huge Kevlar belt replacement section. See if they have them . I have put mower deck belts on two machines and so far I have been pleased. Now YOU need to go on the net and find the troy built site. Down load manual MN 1330490. This is the Horse PDF file. Download and save it.
 
forgot to say build date on side of transmission is 5/18/73. I know this is a old machine and yes I have found the adjustment for the belt. I have not had time to do anything yet and I am not sure if there is any adjustment left but will see as soon as I can. the adjustment is on the lever to engage the transmission and when in gear the lever is almost against the tine fender (very little clearance). I also need to find the model number. I cannot argue about how old or condition (which is good considering the age) of this tiller. What I have used it it has worked better than any other tiller I have ever had.
 
I now own a Troy built tiller my dad got back in 1972. I has probably tilled well over 100 acres of land in it time if not 2 or 3 times that. I replaced the engine for him years ago with a Koler 7HP when the old Tecumseh died. I still use it every summer. There are adjustment to them plus having the correct belt and all helps. By the way this one has had the transmission rebuilt 3 or 4 times so that could also be the problem
 
If both pulleys on the engine are the same size you have an older machine with one speed choice and should be running two belts. If they are two different sizes you have a two speed and only run one belt. As you might guess the older machines were much more tolerant of belt tension. The Troys all work much better if you work your way down in depth instead of trying to work full depth in hard ground. The belts dont have to be very tight for them to work as designed. If your over tighten the belts to make the tiller work deep in tough digging you will soon be looking at replacing the bronze gear and worm,, and wishing you weren't, $$$$
 
If your problem is needing new belts go with the OEM belts. Anything else is just a waste of money.
 
I disagree, if you can find the right size there are aftermarket belts that are as good if not better. But you need to get the right size, know enough about belts and belt applications to choose the right one and not be afraid to spend the money for quality belts. Some of the cheaper belts out there are fractional horsepower belts and won't last, and their are several belt series that are "close" and will interchange, just not work very well. And as far as the OEM belts is you have changed the engine? the new engine may have changed the belt length if it isn't exactly the same on crank position (up and down, left and right) as the old engine.
 

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