JD LT145 starting problems

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Well-known Member
So I got a call today for ma woman who has this LT145 that would not start. I could jump across the 2 big post on the solenoid and make it start. But could not do that from the small ignition start wire to the battery so I know the solenoid was bad. Install new solenoid and could start it with the small wire to the battery but no other way. Checked for safety switches and found 2 that are wire so each has to work. One is the seat safety and the other is the brake peddle safety. I was able to unhook the brake pedal safety and use a couple jumper wires so she could start it and mow her grass but I need to at least try to make it so it is correct. But some how since the 2 safety switches are wired so both have to work or no start I may have to replace them both but sure would be nice to be able to trouble shoot them. Any body have a wiring diagram fro those 2 switches??
Thanks
 
You should only need one of those little Harbor Freight cheap digital meters. Put the meter in diode or resistance setting. When you touch the leads together the meter should whistle. Unhook the two wires from the switch. Touch the leads to the two terminals on the switch. One position no beep. The other position and the meter beeps. If not there then that is the bad switch. Bet the seat switch got too much water in it.
 
Wish it was that easy but it is not. Both switches have 4 wires and the 2 switches are wired in such a way that they both have to work correctly to know how they should work and I know at least one of the 2 are bad but since I do not know how the switch is set up to work it is impossible to know if the switch is working as it should. I know because I tried with my VOM
 
Well, actually it is nearly that easy.

Just keep in mind that most of those switches use the contacts in pairs. So a 4 pin switch actually controls 2 circuits. As far as I know, the pairs of contacts are side by side, or parallel to each other in the plug. The contacts either make when the plunger is pushed or when it is extended.

So to test each side or each circuit in the switch, you put your ohm meter on two of the parallel contacts. If it doesn't read a complete circuit, push the plunger and look at the meter again. It should be a complete circuit with the plunger in one position or the other. If its open both ways, there is your problem.

This does not eliminate the possibility of a broken wire bad connection, etc. in the circuit. But usually the problem is in a switch somewhere.

Also, there should be another switch on the PTO lever. but it works like the seat switch and the brake pedal switch.
 
PTO/Mower deck is an electric type switch not a lever. One switch is a 2 wires top 2 bottom in a square plug and the other is a 4 terminal side by side. I know the 2 have to work with each other because of the colors of the wires from one to the other are the same
 
JD makes what they call a "clicker kit" to fix this problem. I had them include 1 with the last LT 160 I bought. I never needed it.
 
Ohhh then you have those double switches. Should be the two terminals side by side. Most of those close in an activated position. Little springs inside rust and the little shoes don't touch. I have tryed popping them apart and luck out some times. Just messed with a troy pony lawn tractor a few weeks ago. Got a new switch to fix it. Looks like you have a little mess to deal with.
 
Yep they tend to wire these things in such a way you have to know how they are wired to be able to figure out what is what. The seat switch has 4 wires going sort of like this. 1,2,3,4 and 3 and 4 are jumped together. Then the brake switch has them like this
1,2
3'4 and some how the 2 switch work with each other or things do not work at all
 
Yup that is what I said being side by side. Most everyone of those switches I have messed with go positive when pushed in. Complete a safety circut and it needs the contacts closed. The worst is when two of the blasted things are bad. The absolute worst is that stupid key switch / anti back up push bottom glowing LED blasted thing in the dashboard deal on a MTD. What a nightmare that thing is. Grabbed a spare in the junkyard just to he safe. That thing goes bad you really need to do some fancy cross wiring! Should have seen when the voltage regulator and harness socket fryed on my little JD 160 lawn tractor. Old will figure it out after he uses enough language on it.
 
Hey at least I have it so she can mow with it right now even if it has a funny start to it. Right now it will not start till you let off of the switch from the start position to the run position. Then it fires right up. Then to shut it off you go to the head light position and it shuts down but the head lights stay on so then you have to turn it to the stop position but at least she can mow her 12 inch tall grass
 
keep it simple now, replaced solenoid still no go correct, was not solenoid you not getting power two it from switch to tell it to. start at the switch,then work thru , they are all pretty well same industry wide. you do have the clutch switch in off position!!!! seen if happen alot.on those units the park brake switch has moved, check it when you engage it is it actuall activate switch. its always simple issue just takes fun to find it sometimes. 90 % time its usually the seat switch or park brake switch has moved.
 
Check both switches to see if they are where they should be and get pushed like they should be and they are. Both safety switches have to work correctly for it to start since the switches are wired in series
 

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