dieing kohler try again

anybody got any more ideas on dieing kohler cv 740 all things in responses have already tried, still fighting this da!! engine
 
Two things. If it has electronic ignition, replace the ignition module with a known good one. Secondly it could be an intermittent open in the battery. I have had the problem that you describe on a couple of engines. Neither on was a Kohler, one was a Polaris, the other was a Briggs. The battery one about wupped my butt because like you stated it would die and then start right back up.
 
On the one I have been working on. It is to fast to tell. I watched it run for two hours one day no problem. The next day the customer couldn't get it out of the barn. I have a feeling it is headed to the ditch behind the back pasture.
 
roger, this is the hair puller, it always starts right back up. all i can tell you is. soon as it dies i pulled plugs and both have hot spark and fuel is always present. this thing has got me. going try put time light on it and drive and see if can see if lose fire that way. but have to lose both since it twin!!!! i have ran it off my fuel seperate fuel tanks and it never missed beat till second tank fill. i still think its electric side, cause never have to choke to fire back up. been two differnt carbs on it same result. i have also ran seperate wire to carb solenoid thinking it was getting hot shutting fuel off, same result. help help help, i still KNOW IT IS SOMETHING SO SIMPLE BUT Da!! IF I CAN FIND IT. but then again this thing seems to me to be running warmer than others which would be plugged fins or lean on fuel, cannot find any of those issues, fuel is full stream and top motor is clean almost shiney clean from tearing apart so many times. wish you were close let you have shot at it. like said earlier the only thing i have not basically switch or replaced is internal engine parts, runs so smooth and has full power and rpms, absolutely no popping or backfire or sound of missing just stops like turn key off. switched out seat switch that was no help, i am grabbing at straws here now. would clutch shorting out when get warm maybe do this, going try this next see if it dies when clutch not in gear like said i geussing now.
 
Sounds like a defective safety switch in the seat, brake lock, or mower engagement. I would bypass all safety switches and try it again. I had a John Deere with a brake switch that would cause that.
 
You never told us what machine it was on. That might be helpful. For instance, delay modules can sometimes play tricks or relays or bad grounds or bad connections on the chassis can affect engine operation.

You could disconnect the white wire from the engine at the engine plug and see if that helps. that would isolate the ignition modules from the chassis. Be warned that this also bypasses all your safety switches on the mower!

You could also connect a small light in series with the fuel solenoid and see if the fuel solenoid is losing power.

I did not go back and re-read your last post. Does it have a smartspark module on the engine?

I am thinking you said that it seemed to run fine on a test tank. Is there any chance there is something in the tank that slides around and plugs the fuel outlet?
 
Can you hot wire it direct from battery to ignition? Careful of the operator as all safety switches are bypassed.

Only other thing would be to have a fuel supply you could squirt in the carb as it died... to see if that were the issue.

Roger
 
already did the white wire. its on a ztr cub cadet unit which is actually same as bobcat name. 60" deck unit. have switch relays. fuel solenoid has been switch twice, no smart spark. not trying play games here at all just out of ideas. its got me
 
I had a 140 Deere with a Kohler engine , on a hot day it would run for a 1/2 hour and just die . Like you I tried everything so I went out to watch it run. Sure enough it would run a 1/2 hour and die then start as soon as you could hit the key switch ,but I heard a valve snap shut . long story short he was running Ethel gas for his caddy . It would run too hot and cause the exhaust valve to stick open backfire and die faster than you could breathe . If you haven't done this I would change the fuel lines as they will get tiney cracks in then and then the fuel pump cant suck fuel . Just a thought .
 
Try this little trick.

Start the engine and watch the Amp meter. If it does not show much on the positive side.

Locate the Rectifer.

Install a jumper wire from one of it's mounting bolt/screws on the rectifer to a good ground on the frame.

Restart the engine. If the Amp meter now shows high on the positive side. You now have a happy charging system.
 

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