clutch for 1200 cadet

UPDATE....Sorry for the typo. It should read "800 and 1000".

For some odd and strange reason, this site won't let you go back in and edit your own post.
 
Tried to give a simple answer but it gets complicated, sorry. Someone will correct me if my memory has failed me but I believe that outside of the very early "orignal" Cub Cadet that the gear drive garden tractor clutch parts pretty much interchange. This would not include the small "riding lawn mower" types but all models with horizontal shaft engines mounted long ways in the frame otherwise known as prim and proper garden tractors. Any of the 100 series gear drives up to 1000 1200. The only part that differs is the drive plate for the quiet line ( your tractor is one of these)has a flexible center while the earlier tractors with ridged mounted engines had a ridged center drive plate. There are many people parting and servicing those old Cub Cadets and any of them can easily fix you up. Google "cub cadet used parts" or similar.

What usually happens with the quiet line tractors like yours is the soft bushings in the engine cradle go bad and everything settles down in the frame casing alignment issues that wear out the throwout bearing and clutch arm and break the center out of the center of of the drive plate. Advise here is to fix your cradle bushings while you are fixing the clutch. The bushings are available aftermarket, again just google "Cub Cadet quiet line cradle bushings" for a supplier.
 
I suggest you replace the throw out bearing with a new one. Anything used will probably soon have problems too. The last I bought was about $45. I usually weld up the release arm if its badly worn. You probably should think about replacing the clutch lining if its badly worn.

Cub Cadet Specialties has them as well as other places and your local Cub Cadet dealer should still be able to get them.
 

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