Advice on lawn tractor "tractor type" tires

I am considering a set of ag-type tires for the lawn tractor to be used without fluid or weights but to give a bit more traction, maybe, fot light pulling. It is a 4ws and would those more aggressive treads rip up the sharp turn around trees, bushes, small plantings? Present turf-type treads do not scar the lawn even though there are many repetitions over the months.

Any thoughts, Please? Leo

My main mowing machine is a sub-compact tractor with bar tires on all four wheels (it's a 4WD) and
after many years of using it I've yet to find evidence of damage caused by the tires. Now,
granted, my yard isn't a show-piece for a variety of reasons but I can't list damaged turf from bar
tires as one of its faults. One thing that helps this tractor be kind to grass, regardless of what
tires it has, is that it doesn't turn as tight as what a regular lawn or garden tractor would and
tight turns is where you would see the most problems. Not sure if 4WS would help or hurt in this
regard. But, for me personally, I wouldn't be afraid of bar tires unless you're real particular
about having a perfect lawn.

Look at the tire size you have now. 8,10 and 12" tires are sizes found on many ATV's..

It can make your head dizzy looking at all of the 24" or 25" x 10 x12 ATV tires.

I replaced the 23x10x12 Turf Tamer with a set of 24x8x12 Kenda Bearclaw ATV tires for $60 each. Much softer than AG tires and offer much more grip.

Welllll. You didn't yell us what you have and what size. Now I have been doing research for a couple of weeks for my machine. I tripped over a fabulous pair of used ATV tires made by Dunlop a couple of weeks ago at the local flea market and they look great. Last picture. Hey for $25.oo it floats my boat. For a new pair of these they are over $200.oo big ones.
Now here are most of the ones on Ebay and go for several prices. First off I would tell you to stick with a 4ply tire. You do not need a 6ply cause it will give too stiff of a ride. These tires are only in the 8 to 10 pounds of pressure range. The pictures are all of the types I could find and there is one more I couldn't find. The large bars will have 12 lugs and the narrow lugs will be 16 lugs. I would guess more traction. That supper dupper tire has just listed. Good gravy it must have 20 lugs! Another thing is to consider filling your tires with Winter washer fluid. Gives you weight, better traction, AND it lowers the center of gravity. MUCH more stable on hill sides. Lots safer! Consider it! Hope this help ya. By the way, if you are not a crazy person race around nut, these should not mess up you lawn. I have mowed three lawns with my Dunlops and the only marks you see are where there is bare sand. The marks kinda look cute!

I started with the bar lug which are F1 ag tire shape for my ZT. Did pretty good but on hillsides when wet on a 900# machine they slipped. I got
on the www and found some studded tires that fit my 12x20 (tire width, OD) requirements. The studs look like the Letter H somewhat modified
and in a staggered pattern. These worked well.

On my conventional rider, conventional Husqvarna 46 20 hp, I put them on the rear and ATV stud tires on the front. The reason for adding on the
front is that they grip like the studs on the rear and when going parallel to the bank, the studs dig in and steering is controllable. No front end
sliding down the hill.

So my bar lugs are sitting in the cellar to keep them from the elements. Maybe someday I'll find a use for them.

On tearing up your lawn, even with a ZT, just take it easy on turns. Practice and you can get it down to where you don't dig up the grass. Not hard
once you get used to it.

I've got 2 almost identical garden tractors, I can't stand mowing on the one with bar tires, like riding a jack hammer. I can stand plowing or blowing snow with it, not going so fast and the snow cushions the ride.

Oh harsh ride, just drop your air pressure in addition to the seat spring changeout I mentioned several times on here. I run 8-10# on both
conventional and ZT, especially with the stud tires. 2 ply ride the best, but sidewalls don't hold up to the punishment at that air pressure. If the
tire keeps loosing air, just put a proportional (to tire size) amount of slime in the tire and centrifugal force will force it out to the bead-wheel rim
interface and stop that nuisance.....

(quoted from post at 18:41:22 10/06/16) If the
tire keeps loosing air, just put a proportional (to tire size) amount of slime in the tire and centrifugal force will force it out to the bead-wheel rim
interface and stop that nuisance.....

Click to expand...

Sorry. But I would not put Slime in a wheelbarrow tire.. The stuff breaks down and is very corrosive to metal rims. Then if you have to remove the tire you have one huge mess on your hands. Tire shops around here will not even touch any type of tire if they know it has been Slimed.

Just put a tube in the tire. Run just about any air pressure you want never have to worry about them leaking off over time.

Here is what a rim looks like after being slimed with something.

I have Ag tires garden tractors and they climb up and down bank and if you use your head they don't tare up yard. I can pull loaded hay rack with a load of
wood which turf tires won't do.

I guess I'll have to learn the hard way. Guess the people selling it will one day open up that shelf space for something more saleable. Tires been
filled for a couple of months now and holding air between 5 and 10# very well.

I tried the tube thing once on a conventional rider drive tire. First time out ripped the valve stem out of a $13 tube at 10 psig. So much for that!

In the 22 + years in the tire business we found slime to be just that, slime. It does NOTHING to
seal beads, it rusts rims, etc. I have run bar tires on every mower I own except the one I have
now. It would have them on it if they were made in the size it takes. I have never seen any damage
to the turf except when mowing right after a rain. Will have them on the next mower I purchase.

That looks like calcium chloride was in there ?

Well one thing no one mentioned is bar tires give real good traction one way and little to none the other way. So if you go down a hill and it tries to hold back it can actually take off sliding and go faster ! BTDT.

(quoted from post at 13:00:10 10/12/16) That looks like calcium chloride was in there ?

Click to expand...

Slime, Fix A Flat and such garbage will destroy rims.. It can cause aluminum and other alloy rims to even become dangerous to drive on.

Straight from Slime..

[b:6bace66ca7]Do not leave Slime inside your tires for more than 2 years. After that time, we cannot guarantee the integrity of your rims..[/b:6bace66ca7]

A lot of tire manufacturers will void their tires warranty if such witch fixes are used in their tires.

Mule, you have the site where you read your comment from Slime?

Would be very interested in it. New OEM wheels have a nice factory paint coating that the product would have to penetrate first and most alum
wheels I've seen have a clear coat on the interior of the wheel and some the exterior too, like GM alums I've used since back in the 90's and
current 2011 alum with chrome plated steel skins on the visible side.

What you said is a big deal to me since I recently put some in my front tires on my '07 tractor and having to replace them due to Slime would be a
very big deal.

And then there is this ....... how do you get it out? Remove the tire and clean it out. Yeah right. Me and a couple of helpers that I don't have.

I just read 4 pages of comments from Amazon www and there were some mentions of corrosion along with 75% or so 5 star ratings. No mention
of the shape of the participants wheels for those griping nor usage thereof.

Seems to me that the volume and array of products of such,available for years in the market place, if it was all that bad it would be doing the
disappearing act. I do realize that if you have a puncture and choose to break the tire down and install a cold patch that it is much messier than
when no sealant is used. That's a no brainer.

I have ag tires on my jd 235. I ordered it that way. They do well. The terrain tires skid and tear up the grass.
Also the bars hold the tire off the grass and don't mash it down... the mower then does a better job.
I am seeing more lawn tractors with bar tires on them.

(quoted from post at 18:54:36 10/14/16) Mule, you have the site where you read your comment from Slime?

Would be very interested in it. New OEM wheels have a nice factory paint coating that the product would have to penetrate first and most alum
wheels I've seen have a clear coat on the interior of the wheel and some the exterior too, like GM alums I've used since back in the 90's and
current 2011 alum with chrome plated steel skins on the visible side.

What you said is a big deal to me since I recently put some in my front tires on my '07 tractor and having to replace them due to Slime would be a
very big deal.

And then there is this ....... how do you get it out? Remove the tire and clean it out. Yeah right. Me and a couple of helpers that I don't have.

I just read 4 pages of comments from Amazon www and there were some mentions of corrosion along with 75% or so 5 star ratings. No mention
of the shape of the participants wheels for those griping nor usage thereof.

Seems to me that the volume and array of products of such,available for years in the market place, if it was all that bad it would be doing the
disappearing act. I do realize that if you have a puncture and choose to break the tire down and install a cold patch that it is much messier than
when no sealant is used. That's a no brainer.

Click to expand...

[i:cb32689b69]Like I stated.. Straight from Slime itself..[/i:cb32689b69]

[b:cb32689b69]I’ve heard Slime will ruin my rims, is that true?[/b:cb32689b69]

Our Slime Sealant for tubeless tires is formulated with rust and corrosion inhibitors as well as a pH buffer making the product more alkaline. All of these ingredients work to protect the integrity of your rim. [b:cb32689b69][color=red:cb32689b69]It is important to note there are factors which can allow damage to occur in spite of this.[/color:cb32689b69][/b:cb32689b69] If you want to err on the side of caution, you can use Slime as a roadside repair. All you need is Slime and an air compressor! [b:cb32689b69][color=red:cb32689b69]Slime can have an adverse effect on certain types of aluminum rims. Because alloys differ, it is difficult to predict how Slime will react with your rims specifically.[/color:cb32689b69][/b:cb32689b69] Over the years, though, we have found that older rims are more susceptible to damage from Slime. Make sure that, if you have tubeless tires, you are using our tubeless formula. Our inner tube formula does not contain rust and corrosion inhibitors. [b:cb32689b69][color=red:cb32689b69]Do not leave Slime inside your tires for more than 2 years. After that time, we cannot guarantee the integrity of your rims.[/color:cb32689b69][/b:cb32689b69] If pre-existing damage is present, we do not recommend using Slime.

http://www.slime.com/us/faq.php

I do not Amazon, Ebay nor Consumer Digest... I prefer to talk to people that actually have some knowledge and hands on experiences with something rather than someone who put garbage in their tires and ten minutes later get on some website praising how great it worked.

The above CC is under[b:8a722471f0] General Information[/b:8a722471f0]..


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